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@michael What is your typical WH/mile rating? And if you fully charge it overnight, what do you typically see for the GOM miles? I think you are right about the 19.5. At least with my 2014, if I extrapolate on long trips where I nearly run it dry, I usually come up with about 19.5. The one...

Not as much as some might hope, including this dealer: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-Ford-Focus-/141681840420?nma=true&si=DozC3jxIiOUzX%252FOVocO46gIiqvE%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

Mind the AMT! The $7500 credit for the vehicle purchase is not affected by the AMT, but the EVSE credit is.

The packs are split (unevenly) so the top (smaller) pack probably has only slightly more energy in it than your Energi. The voltages will be different as well. I think the technical challenges would be overwhelming for a one-off project. The only way I could see it work is if you used the...

They're not even remotely similar. You can go to www.fordparts.com and look each of them up and they have a nice blow-up diagram and picture of each. What, specifically, were you looking to compare?

Where is it melted? The problem may be your outlet. Loose connection = high resistance = voltage drop = heat

You would have to start by understanding the operation of the braking system. The brakes are run entirely by the electronic control system and there is no direct connection between the pedal and the brake system unless a fault occurs...

Why not? You get a refund, less the use allowance, and you keep the tax credits that you hopefully got. Or, you get a brand new car. Let them know now that you aren't going to let them off the hook and on the 31st day out of service you don't want it back. So they can take a pump off the...

The cost of the system is the most important variable--and the one thing that the solar installers don't want you to consider as a variable. System costs have come down, and the bulk of that has been a reduction in installer profit margin. The equipment costs have also come down, but not so...

You are a perfect candidate for solar.

I don't use value charging so I don't worry about my charging location, but I did notice something the other day that might possibly be related. I was driving down a street and had the map display up. It showed me driving what I guess to be 100 feet off to the side of the road--terrorizing...

Are you saying that charging always, or usually, warms the battery up to 98F? Or is it just when it is pretty warm to begin with?

I'm not 100% sure on a 2015, but on a 2014: DRL is not enabled on the US models, but you can leave the headlight switch in the ON position all the time. Ours has been on since we got it. No keypad option but it isn't needed with the FFE. As long as your key is in your pocket, the car will...

If it were, the 50 kW or so of max regen would really be a problem. Everything I know boils down to keeping the bulk charge current under 0.8C and the temperature below 86F. And that is for old "conventional" chemistry batteries. Since you have a scan tool and I don't, have you ever measured...

The headlights have an AUTO mode and an ON mode. In AUTO they come on when needed, such as when it dark or when you are using the wipers. I just leave the switch in the ON mode--that way they go on and off with the car. There have been some people here that have modified the wiring to make...

A redundant ground in EMT is fine, but don't let it become a substitute for proper EMT installation--connecting and bonding--and make sure you bond the box that the outlet goes in to that redundant ground. The ground circuit doesn't do much in an EVSE (mainly it grounds the car) and the main...

Hope if you wish, but it isn't on the list..... We should all be prepared for these cars to become "abandonware". I doubt Ford is going to be terribly concerned with our post-warranty satisfaction, at least not the the point of spending lots of money and making sure dealers are well trained...

@Campfamily You can used sheathed wire or conduit, but don't put sheathed wire IN conduit! I'll assume you are using conduit, but if you don't, you simply need 8-2G NM-B (2 wires with ground). Is your conduit going to go all the way back to the service panel? In that case you just need two...

If it is all in conduit and you are using 90F rated wire (THHN or THWN), you'll be fine, but you'll need to use a 50A plug type (there are several) and that may not match what is on your EVSE. If any part of your circuit is NM-B or UF (sheathed cable) then that portion should be 6 gauge wire...

My Warranty Guide (2014, p.11) lists the components included in the "Electric Unique Components Coverage" as: high voltage battery packs, high voltage charger, DC-DC convertor, Electric Drive Module Assembly (includes electric motor and gearbox), trans range and charge cord. There is a lot...