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I decided to order the OBDLink EX that's optimized for FORScan. I'm going to see what it can do with the "better" interface. I have a C-Max Energi anyway so it might come in handy for that one.

So far after the battery is charged I'm only seeing 16.8 kWh ETE in forscan lite, but balancing is happening and I can see the POS_BAT_PACK voltage is bouncing around a lot while NEG_BAT_PACK is stable (and higher, at 183.6). Variation of 0.28V is brutal, it was only 0.17V earlier when I was...

My 2017 is seeing substantial capacity loss fwiw, at 101K miles, but one thing I can offer is I noticed the Rebalance status is usually Disabled by Vehicle when the car's turned on, but midway through charging it's running - so I guess it rebalances while charging, and possibly at the end? My...

Ran it all the way down. The OBD2 remaining kwh stayed at 0.000 for a little while as the defrost cranked away. H_BATT_CHAR was at 5.02 when it finally quit. I am charging it up fully now and will let it sit & rebalance overnight.

What is the typical voltage variation for the cells? Right now mine is 0.17V which feels a bit high, suggesting there is a rogue cell. I'm using FORScan Lite on my phone to view this but I don't see an option to view individual cell voltages (just check rebalancing circuit status)

My motor mounts are trashed, isolated the front-end clunk down to the motor mounts and I can see the rubber visibly collapsed/hollow in spots (can press on it with my finger) on the passenger-side mount and I can rock the motor easily with a crowbar. The problem I'm having is finding the parts...

Looking for info on this now as I just checked in with our 2017. 101K miles, down to 17kWh, if I'm not mistaken that's 65% of the original 26kWh I was seeing (via FORScan Lite). I believe we're "probably" (might be able to find this out definitively from the dashboard but haven't looked yet)...

No wear-through on my 2017 (wouldn't expect it), but I was curious about that.

I drive in L all the time.

haven't read the whole thing yet, but isn't the pilot signal supposed to go from +12V to -12V? and then gets pulled down to +9V, -12V...

Got it... 10awg is a bit small but for a 3ft run it's fine.

As long as the EVSE is wired with 8 gauge wire, it should be OK. Smaller than that I would hesitate and see if the wire can be re-run.

It pulls up to 28-30A. A 40A breaker is appropriate (32A max). So your HCS-40 needs a circuit sized appropriately (and 8 gauge wiring) or else you should get an adjustable EVSE to throttle the Focus down to 16A for your 20A circuit (which is the max the Ford Energi vehicles support).

That's a rather .... uh ... interesting idea. Probably well ahead of its time, as I don't think many of us are eager to start jumping into Ethereum currency just yet.

It periodically makes me do it now. Also the Vehicle Locator often goes to a blank bluish screen... need to kill/restart the app. Guess I should send another email. Don't these guys test their !@#$ing apps before they release!??

I have found the traction control quite effective in the FFE when climbing an icy, snowy hill... was pleasantly surprised at its performance.

Don't they list the Superchargers on Plugshare.com (& app)?

Old steam engine on the WSRR heritage railroad this weekend. http://wsrr.org

I have always experienced defrost as pulling in outside air, and I don't believe it lets you enable recirc. Focus Electric and C-Max Energi IIRC. Incidentally my wife stumbled across a workaround - don't hit defrost, instead hit floor vent and THEN defrost, with the two active the power...

By definition you can't keep it in the blue forever. It bases your est. mileage to empty based on the performance of your last drive or so.