Got a wrench today

[Guest]

So I start driving away from my house today and notice the "see manual" notification in the dash with the wrench lit. I get to work ans shut it down, Turn it back on and no wrench. Come out from work 6 hours later, start the car and get the wrench. So I break out the bluetooth obd and forscan lite. I have the following dtcs. p0aa6, p0b4c, p0b51, p0b65, p0b6a, p0a9f, p0ac9, p0c85, p0c8c, p0c91, p0d08, p0a1f, p1594, b1d00, b1d01. They all say fault not present at time of scan, malfunction indicator lamp is off for this dtc. Last night I had a charge fault while charging at my work so some of this might be from that too. The car has been driving and starting fine since my xmas eve non start issue. It has been in the 20,s here lately. Can a certified used car be subject to the lemon law too? I love this car but Im worried that its a pile of junk and I will be screwed once my warranty runs out.

 

[triangles]

Did you look up those codes to see what they mean?

 

[user 5739]

https://www.autocodes.com/p0aa6.html

some of the codes look pretty serious. look up other codes yourself there.

 

[Guest]

Yeah, I looked them up. A bunch are warnings about the hybrid battery isolation circuits. Those are the ones that worry me. Maybe they might lead to a new battery under warranty? One is for a contactor stuck closed. 2 that come up all the time are for my headlight circuits being open or shorted. Those are a mystery as the lights work fine. One is for a fault at startup. Is there any way to determine what date those codes were stored? That would help me in linking them to things that happened.

 

[spirilis]

Straight to the dealer..... wouldn't touch those codes with a 10 foot pole!

 

[Guest]

We're in the middle of a blizzard right now so I dont think anything is happening until monday at best. Im afraid that they will just clear the codes, say its working and give the car back to me. If the wrench is gone and they cant reproduce it, will they act on stored codes?
Is it safe to drive it?

 

[spirilis]

We're in the middle of a blizzard right now so I dont think anything is happening until monday at best. Im afraid that they will just clear the codes, say its working and give the car back to me. If the wrench is gone and they cant reproduce it, will they act on stored codes?
Is it safe to drive it?

I'd keep it local if possible. Consider the risk that you may be stranded at your destination if the contactors goof up. Then again with a blizzard you might not be going far anyway, but on the other hand, the risk of getting stranded is that much higher; and if the HVB can't be energized you don't have heat.

 

[Guest]

Yeah, driving the jeep in the bad weather. I understand the possibility of getting stuck. I really meant if there was any threat of fire or shock. The whole hybrid battery isolation fault leads me to believe that there may be 300v that is not isolated any more.

 

[spirilis]

Yeah, driving the jeep in the bad weather. I understand the possibility of getting stuck. I really meant if there was any threat of fire or shock. The whole hybrid battery isolation fault leads me to believe that there may be 300v that is not isolated any more.

No idea of course beyond an educated guess but I would think "contactors stuck closed" means the HVB can't be isolated from the rest of the vehicle (high voltage bus is live all the time) when it's shut down... in theory that wouldn't be any worse than if you left the car "on" and walked away from it for hours, at least you can know the 12V battery is nice & charged when you get back! :lol:

 

[triangles]

The contactor stuck would only be a problem if you have a short. I don't know that I would fear my car might spontaneously combust but then again I wouldn't park it in the garage right below my bedroom just in case... I would take it to a dealer ASAP. also if the contactor is stuck on and there is a current draw constantly on the HVB if you don't plug it in you could possibly over discharge the HBV damaging or killing it but that might not be a bad thing because you'd likely get a 33.5kw warranty replacement. It's also possible many of the errors are phantom errors. It's quite common when something goes wrong that the computer is tricked into logging errors that aren't real and/or are completely unrelated to what caused a problem in the first place.

 

[Guest]

Sometimes I just dont look at things correctly. I kind of dismissed the contactor code and fixated on the isolation thing. I had found a video about a lexus hybrid that had the same isolation code and they had to tear out the battery only to find water in the pack caused by a water leak in the back hatch that was pooling under the seat where the battery was located. Can contactors be replaced or are they part of the pack? It would be a shame to have to replace the whole pack. (not) Lol. I think those headlight codes are phantom, as you say because they seem to always be there whenever theres any other codes stored. I actually feel better about my car now, thanks for your insights into this matter.

 

[triangles]

Speculating because I don't know for sure but I would think they would be integrated into the battery pack. You can here them clicking/clunking when you power on/off the car and the sound is coming from the battery area. If they're not in the battery I'd be surprised because there isn't much room back there for anything other than the battery. I would think they would be relatively easy to replace. If ford was smart they would have designed it so they can be replaced without having to remove the battery but I'm not too optimistic about that.

 

[Guest]

2 more wrenches. 1 last night and one today. Its the hybrid battery isolation thing. Its intermittent and doesnt seem to affect the cars performance so far. Its annoying to say the least. Probably some corroded pin in some harness somewhere. Grrr. Annoying.

 

[Pearl]

I got the wrench yesterday on my 2013. My wife had the car, she parked it into the garage, and when I came home from work, the wrench was off but I hooked up ForScan and got a bunch of codes:

P0C91 Hybrid/EV Battery Temperature Sensor J Intermittent/Erratic
P0C8C Hybrid/EV Battery Temperature Sensor I Intermittent/Erratic
P0AC9 Hybrid/EV Battery Temperature Sensor B Intermittent/Erratic
P0B6A Hybrid/EV Battery Voltage Sense J Circuit Low
P0B65 Hybrid/EV Battery Voltage Sense I Circuit Low
P0B51 Hybrid/EV Battery Voltage Sense E Circuit Low
P0AA6 Hybrid/EV Battery Voltage System Isolation Fault

Today, as she drove it home again, the wrench came back on.
I will call the Dealer ASAP.

Did you get yours fixed, Triangles? what was the problem/solution?

Thanks

 

[carbuff]

That P0AA6 one was the one that did in my 2013. They couldnt make it go away and said it wasnt safe to drive with it, so that was the end of the road for it.

 

[Pearl]

Follow up to my Yellow Wrench.

A few days of driving, with the Yellow Wrench coming on and off, came back to the car one day after work, and the SSN was there, and the car, of course wouldn’t move. Towed to the dealer.
A few days of diagnosis, and today I get a call from the service advisor, that coolant is leaking in the HV battery and Ford has authorized its replacement. The Advisor was in awe that the cost for that repair will be $33K. They will follow up tomorrow with an eta on the battery shipment.

So I will probably be getting a 33.5 KWH battery?

 

[carbuff]

Follow up to my Yellow Wrench.

A few days of driving, with the Yellow Wrench coming on and off, came back to the car one day after work, and the SSN was there, and the car, of course wouldn’t move. Towed to the dealer.
A few days of diagnosis, and today I get a call from the service advisor, that coolant is leaking in the HV battery and Ford has authorized its replacement. The Advisor was in awe that the cost for that repair will be $33K. They will follow up tomorrow with an eta on the battery shipment.

So I will probably be getting a 33.5 KWH battery?

Yes, congrats. I should have squirted some coolant into my battery.