No heat

[wplate]

They heat in my focus electric does not seem to be working!

It is 28° outside, and I have the car on with the heater running, but cold air is blowing out. Even 10 minutes later.

Is there anything I can do? Do I need to bring this into the dealer?

 

[WattsUp]

They heat in my focus electric does not seem to be working!

It is 28° outside, and I have the car on with the heater running, but cold air is blowing out. Even 10 minutes later.

Is there anything I can do? Do I need to bring this into the dealer?

Does the climate energy graph (accessible via the left-hand dash display) show that energy is being used while the heater is (supposedly) running? When the heater is working hard, the graph should read a climate energy usage level of 5 kW or greater. If the graph shows no energy being used (or very little) then (other than the cold air blowing obviously) this would be a very good technical clue to show to your dealer.

And, yes, I would take it to the dealer. Even if the problem is simply a blown fuse for the heating element, those fuses are considered "high voltage" (they are not normal car fuses) and should only be checked/changed by a qualified technician.

 

[wplate]

The energy bar shows no climate consumption with the car on but not ready to drive (no brake when started).

If I depress the brake and press the start button to make it ready to drive, then the climate energy consumption goes all the way up. After some time he will also start to come out of the system.

I can't remember how the heater works, but this doesn't seem right. I would expect heat either way. Right?

Anyway, I have an appointment next week. Thanks for suggesting I develop more info.

 

[WattsUp]

The energy bar shows no climate consumption with the car on but not ready to drive (no brake when started). ... I can't remember how the heater works, but this doesn't seem right. I would expect heat either way. Right?

Uh no... I am afraid this is normal behavior. My FFE does exactly the same thing. In the FFE, with the ignition is only in "accessory mode", the climate system is powered, but neither the A/C or heat will function. Only the fan works.

When you think about it, this is much like a regular ICE car. If you put an ICE into "accessory mode" (that is, "on" but engine NOT running) there will be no source of heat (to transfer to blown air) or source of mechanical motion (for the A/C compressor, usually driven off an engine belt). So, just like in the FFE, the A/C and heat will not function in an ICE that is in accessory mode.

In the FFE, being in "ready to drive" mode means the high-voltage battery is engaged which, aside from powering the car's electric motor, also powers the heater and A/C compressor. (Powering these things from just the 12V battery would quickly deplete it.) But, the HVB is not engaged in accessory mode (just like the engine is not running for an ICE in accessory mode) and so we have no A/C or heat.

 

[WattsUp]

I'm not sure if heat works in accessory mode

It does not. Neither does A/C. The HVB battery (which powers these things) is not engaged in accessory mode.

GO times and remote starts are special. They are like being in "ready-to-drive" mode (meaning, the HVB is engaged, and possibly also external power if the car is plugged in) without really being ready to drive, of course.

 

[wplate]

Ah, The remote start thing is what threw me. I generally use that in cold weather, but yesterday I couldn't because my 240 EVLink charger is giving me a red light. I read it is a ground fault error, is that a problem in the car or in the EVLink?

http://youtu.be/vfZtM3HPjX8
The 110 convenience charger works fine.

Thank you all for sorting me out on the heater. Very helpful info that I didn't know.

 

[davideos]

A ground fault is when power finds a different path to ground instead of through the expected wires. Think of it like an electrical leak. If you haven't had the problem before, has anything changed? It could be the FFE, but you could try another L2 charger to verify.

It could be in the EVSE or the FFE. 240V comes in on 2 wires on the J1772 connector. There is also a ground. The EVSE could be detecting an in-balance of current between the AC terminals. If any power makes it to the ground wire in either the EVSE or the FFE, the EVSE will detect it and shut off. Suppose a frayed charging wire in the FFE happened to touch the sheet metal of the car. You come along and touch it. Current could go through the wire, to your sheet metal through you and to ground. But instead, the EVSE will sense it and shut off before you have the chance...since the FFE is likely grounded through the ground pin of the J1772. That's what it is suppose to do, but if something is in error somewhere, it could be falsely triggering...or even correctly triggering. If you test on another L2 and it works, it is likely your EVSE.

 

[WattsUp]

I read it is a ground fault error, is that a problem in the car or in the EVLink?

It is probably the EVSE that has the problem. If you can charge fine from another 240V EVSE, such as a public ChargePoint station, this would be good evidence that your car is fine.

A ground fault error (if real) reported by an EVSE usually means it is not happy with your home wiring. If you suspect this is the case, I would have things (the EVSE and your home wiring) checked by a professional electrician.

A fault report could also be caused by some defect in the EVSE. Perhaps the customer support for the EVSE could give you some advice on that?

 

[davideos]

It probably isn't an issue with the home wiring. The EVSE will only detect a ground fault that goes through it...not before it.

You can also suspect the cable to the car if it has been run over or damaged in some other way.

 

[WattsUp]

It probably isn't an issue with the home wiring. The EVSE will only detect a ground fault that goes through it...not before it.

What I meant was that the unit might be installed (wired) in some way that is causing the fault. Perhaps something about the installation wiring, or even the way the EVSE is mounted, is causing an unexpected connection to ground that the unit can detect, perhaps intermittently.

 

[wplate]

From what I can tell, the only thing that has changed since from when it was working (it has been working flawlessly for nearly two years, btw) and now when it is failing is the outside temperature. It has been below freezing, which is cold for us in Seattle.

But it has been below freezing before and this didn't happen.

I verified that the car can charge from a Level 2 charger by taking my car to a L2 charger at my local ford dealer... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLqSfo3AuMw

I will enlist some help to look at my EVLink EVSE and the charging cable.

Thank you, everyone, for your help on this matter.

 

[jwilson165]

so i was having the same issue - heat stopped working suddenly. consumption would indicate that the heat was on but it just blew cold air. now that the problem is resolved it made sense - the heat pump tanked. had it replaced now im good to go. the consumption meter must be driven by whatever accessories are running. since the pump was still running (but not working) the car assumed all was well. anyway, thought i would chime in.

 

[wplate]

Turns out my EVLink charging unit was faulty. I emailed Schneider Electric and they called me on the phone the next day. The tech explained that there was an issue with first gen EVLinks where their ground fault circuitry could kick in prematurely. At least that's what I understood him to say. I was thrilled that they offered to replace the unit. Today it arrived and it works!

http://youtu.be/7sPfczKcz38

I sure extra-appreciate the fast level 2 charger having been without it for a short time. 120V means a slow recharge!

 

[Snowman]

Out of curiosity, when did you purchase the initial charger? I have the same unit.

 

[wplate]

Out of curiosity, when did you purchase the initial charger? I have the same unit.

Two years ago.