Picked up this nice 2013 FFE

Seller must have ran it three or four weeks through the dealer auction getting either no bids or not enough money. I made him a cash offer $50 higher than the highest bid and which would save both of us buyer and seller fees. Haven't brought it back, but it's a pretty clean example with 125,000 miles. I charged it up at the auction and it shows almost 60 miles range, so pretty normal battery degradation for the age and miles. Main reason I bought another cheap EV is I just got registered with the IRS Clean Energy program to give the 30% instant tax credit rebate, and I want to see how easy it works. If I sell it for $3,000, the buyer would only have to pay me $2,100 which should make it a quick sale.

Curious to know what the remaining kWh capacity is and if it's the original pack or not.

I have no idea how to check.

Anti_Climax said:

Curious to know what the remaining kWh capacity is and if it's the original pack or not.

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If I was a betting man I would say it’s around 14.5 to 15kW and at that mileage. It has been replaced… My 2017 was at 72 miles of range and 17kW when it went to Ford for a replacement…..88k on the clock. Ps. It’s still there….

atikovi said:

I have no idea how to check.

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There are a few ways. For free and simple but a bit of error: fully charge it and look at the left screen display that shows the range gauge and battery level. The blue "cup" around the bottom of the gauge reflects the Wh/mi it's currently using to generate that estimate. So you multiply that value by the miles it displays and get the energy-to-empty it's calculating against. How precise that is depends on how closely you can read the top of that cup. You could repeat it a few times to average it out.

Free, more involved/time consuming: fully charged, clear one of your trip meters and drive it down as far as you can. Once it's almost empty, park and turn AC on full to one side of the climate controls and full heat on the other to draw down the battery to "zero". When it hits 0%, the trip meter energy will reflect the capacity that was available for that charge. I know some folks don't like the idea of fully discharging their batteries, but 0-100% on our gauge is actually ~8% to 95% on the actual pack SoC, so you're not actually hitting 0%.

Dead simple but $: Use ForScan and a compatible OBD reader to simply read out the value the car is using.