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The cabin heater is called the "PTC Heater". It runs off of traction battery high voltage. If it is not working properly, this is something you should not attempt to repair yourself. This is not a simple 12V fuse. The cabin heater is only used for cabin heat. The battery heater consists of 3...

I had the same experience with a garage outlet when I moved into my house. One 15 amp circuit for two outlets in the garage, the two garage door openers, and lights. Needless to say, day 2 of living there was installing Level II charging :D

The purpose of plugging into a dedicated outlet is to not overload the branch circuit that is supply that outlet. The level I cord that comes with the FFE draws 12A. For a standard 15A circuit, drawing 12A contious is the maximum this circuit can safely supply. So, you shouldn't have anything...

The limit of the battery through the software is based on state of charge (voltage). The energy you can get out of that state of charge window is less when the temperature is colder. Thus, you get less kWh out of the battery. The limits are not changed based on temperature, as far as I know.

It's just the coolant pumps running. My car makes the exact same noises when it's warming or cooling while charging.

When the battery is cold you will not get the 19.5 kWh expected in temperate climates. I typically get 15.5 to 16 kWh in sub freezing temperatures. However, when the temperature warms back up, I get the 19.5 kWh again. Did you have to leave your windows cracked to prevent fogging? That's what...

The Clippercreek CS-90 on the left is a 70A EVSE on a 90 amp breaker, however, I wired it with 1 AWG wire so I could swap it out with a Tesla HPWC and 100 amp breaker in the future. The middle outlet is just a 20 amp 120V branch circuit I added for extra outlets in the garage. The right outlet...

I installed a 70A EVSE for the reason of future proofing. Also, friends with Tesla's or RAV4 EV's (not that there are any in PA) could use the faster charge rate.

My FFE was used and on the lot for 9 months. No regrets or noticeable issues, just a great deal.

It appears the max the car will draw (as measured with a clamp on current meter) is about 30 Arms. It will not draw more current at 208 Vrms to maintain constant power, which means your charging rate will be slower on 208 Vrms than 240 Vrms. The max the car will draw at the level I range of 120...

FWIW, I notice that mine opens very slowly, or not at all, in very cold weather. When it warms up, it opens more like normal.

6.6kW charging is still a low xC charge rate. There is no issue with charging at this speed. In my experience, it is entirely worth it to have the capability to charge at the full speed (especially when the FFE's full speed isn't that fast to begin with). Bottom line, I do not see any advantage...

A Stop Safely Now error will occur for a multitude of reasons. Some of those include the safety interconnects on the high voltage connections being broken. Stop Safely Now will still occur in FFE's. The recall just fixed them happening for non error events.

The car will not effectively heat on Level I 120V charging. Unfortunate, but true. As soon as you unplug it, you'll feel the air heat right up.

999 wh/mi happens every time I reset my trip meter. This is just because A: The efficiency calculation caps out at 999 wh/mi, and B: at initial start up, you have used the motor to start moving and there is very little distance in the calculation; therefore the efficiency calculation hasn't had...

Keep in mind that the battery heaters draw 900W total. So this low current state may just be the battery heaters running. A key give away is when you can hear the battery coolant pump purring away.

The kWh amount that you are able to get out of the battery will change with temperature. The battery percentage, as best I can tell, is based on the voltage of the battery. I have gotten 19.5 kWh on a mild day and as little as 15.6 kWh on a below 0F day.

The service manual for the Focus Electric has all of these details. Also, the service training program gives a nice overview of all the system operations.

I wish the heater could use less energy, but I believe its power level is absolutely necessary. During my commute on a few near 0F days this year, in particular yesterday, in a 30 minute ride home the car never got to a fully warm temperature. The climate was pegged at 5kW+ the whole way. Maybe...

I have a Tesla Model S UMC converted to J1772. The UMC has a NEMA 5-20 plug adapter that makes the UMC send a 16A pilot signal. Interestingly enough, the pilot signal doesn't say anything about the voltage. It just tells the car the current limitation. The car measures the incoming voltage. The...