2017 Glove Box removal

[scottt]

Looks like Ford slightly changed the glovebox for the 2017 model.

Can't seem to find any instructions on how to get it out. Anyone tried on theirs yet?

Thx

 

[triangles]

I have no idea but out of curiosity why do you want to remove the glove box?

 

[scottt]

I have no idea but out of curiosity why do you want to remove the glove box?

Wiring an autodim mirror. It's easier to run/route the wires with the glovebox out.

 

[cutler03gt]

-You need to pull back the door weatherstrip and pop off the side finish panel.
-Remove the lower trim underneath (hush panel I think it's called), that is held with the 2 speed nuts.
-You should now have access to remove 1 fastener on the side, 2 at the top, 2 on the bottom. It looks like there are 2 additional clips and maybe an additional fastener holding it in place on the inside of it.

 

[scottt]

-You need to pull back the door weatherstrip and pop off the side finish panel.
-Remove the lower trim underneath (hush panel I think it's called), that is held with the 2 speed nuts.
-You should now have access to remove 1 fastener on the side, 2 at the top, 2 on the bottom. It looks like there are 2 additional clips and maybe an additional fastener holding it in place on the inside of it.

Thanks, that sounds a lot like it was to remove the 2015 box. The door on the 2017 model is different, didn't know if I needed to take it off first before doing anything. Have this Saturday set aside to do this, we'll see how it goes.

Thx

 

[triangles]

Does the auto dim mirror need anything besides power? Because you can get power from behind the overhead console.

 

[scottt]

Does the auto dim mirror need anything besides power? Because you can get power from behind the overhead console.

I prefer to use fuse taps so that I don't have to splice into wires. It uses ground, ignition power and constant power.

Fuses 65 and 85 do nicely, and there was a handy grounding screw nearby as well (at least on the 2015).

 

[triangles]

I could be wrong but I don't think there is constant power up behind the overhead console.

FYI for anyone who wants to tap into a wire but doesn't want the connection to fail it can be done without breaking out the soldering iron. Years ago I discovered a method for tapping into an existing wire that is almost as good as soldering. First throw away those crappy clip on splices. They are likely to fail or worse cut the wire you're trying to tap into.

Simply remove the insulation about an inch long from a section of the wire you are tapping into. Divide the exposed copper into two strands so you have a hole. Strip back about an inch and a half of the new wire. Thread that like a needle thru the hole between the strands of the wire you are tapping into. Once thru the hole divide exposed new wire into two strands. The insulation of the new wire should be right up against the copper of the wire you're tapping into. Tightly wrap the two strands of the new wire in opposite directions around the exposed strands of the wire you're tapping into. Once this is done you should have a very strong connection even without solder. If you want the connection to be permanent you could solder at this point but I like it to be removable if I change my mind in the future. At this point to make sure you don't have a short in the future I fold the new wire to one side or the other so it's parallel to the wire I just tapped into and wrap all the exposed copper with quality electrical tape. To ensure the electrical tape doesn't come apart over time as electrical tape often does I secure both ends of the wrap with small zip ties.

 

[FiSh]

Does the auto dim mirror need anything besides power? Because you can get power from behind the overhead console.

I prefer to use fuse taps so that I don't have to splice into wires. It uses ground, ignition power and constant power.

Fuses 65 and 85 do nicely, and there was a handy grounding screw nearby as well (at least on the 2015).

Are you sure about constant power? Usually it's reverse power

 

[scottt]

Does the auto dim mirror need anything besides power? Because you can get power from behind the overhead console.

I prefer to use fuse taps so that I don't have to splice into wires. It uses ground, ignition power and constant power.

Fuses 65 and 85 do nicely, and there was a handy grounding screw nearby as well (at least on the 2015).

Are you sure about constant power? Usually it's reverse power

It's an Autodim mirror, not a backup camera mirror.

 

[FiSh]

It's an Autodim mirror, not a backup camera mirror.

Yes, I know. I'm installing one myself and in the installation manual it asks for Reverse signal (probably to turn off dimming while reversing, which is not necessary I guess) I read people usually don't connect it.
Here is a manual from my mirror: https://www.brandmotion.com/docs/9002-9703II1.pdf

 

[meghabadal33010]

Sorry I have no idea about it. But because of your post, I have got some knowledge of Glove Box.

 

[scottt]

It's an Autodim mirror, not a backup camera mirror.

Yes, I know. I'm installing one myself and in the installation manual it asks for Reverse signal (probably to turn off dimming while reversing, which is not necessary I guess) I read people usually don't connect it.
Here is a manual from my mirror: https://www.brandmotion.com/docs/9002-9703II1.pdf

Interesting. I had not seen an autodim mirror that offered that function. I wouldn't worry about it too much. Can't recall when I would have wished my mirrors didn't dim while I'm in reverse.