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Well it's May 11th... and finally the FFE died. Might not be totally down for the count but having my wife & daughter stranded in the middle of a road (SSN) means we're finally sick of it. Odd thing I could not get the car to talk over OBD-II, no matter what I did, wireless or USB-wired cable...

I got a 3D printer last month and have gone nuts with the hobby. Turns out some folks have produced 3D models of a few common interior trim pieces our Focus Electrics use. 1. The peg for hanging the rear parcel cover - DV6Z58519A16AA https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1686200/files Printed...

So it turns out there is! https://www.greentecauto.com/hybrid-battery/ford/focus-ev/ford-focus-ev-battery-replacement-pack-2011-2018-2 $15K for the replacement battery, plus a core charge - but they will only warranty the replacement completely (**) if you use one of "their shops" to do it...

Not directly answering the Q but, I can vouch for the fact that, once the "Voltage Variation" between cells metric hits 0.30 V, a wrench light comes on (code P0BBE) and the dealer will certainly look at the battery and consider it for replacement. That happened to me, mine just happens to be at...

Yeah they haven't got back to me but it needs something front-end on top of this, I am not sure where to go from here. Probably ask them to diagnose the steering clunk (related to all this front-end stuff I've been looking at) and if it's not too much, fix that & drive it 'til the battery stops...

Update- Dealer's playing dumb, sent me an invoice for $24,283.10 for the diagnostics plus battery replacement. The service advisor claimed he looked up & down for warranty info before sending this to me. He also had the vehicle description wrong, listing my C-Max Energi instead of the Focus...

And it's at the dealer... we'll see what comes of it. I'd probably take the buyout if they offer one. Our needs have changed and there is something going on with the frontend still (seems steering related), kinda sick of dealing with it.

All were replaced. It appears the lower mount (seen in the lower left, a shiny aluminum piece) does still allow a little flex. The subframe cavity where it goes isn't a "tight" fit either- there is some flex room. I assume this is normal. The old one was dry rotted and cracked, and a video...

That's a hard one. Depends on how much else is wrong with the car I guess. Bushings, shocks, etc... all fixable but with what hassle.. I'm getting more interested in PHEVs nowadays, I'd probably take the buyout and look for a plug-in hybrid using it as a down payment. TBH I might be in that...

Still not 100% sure what the looseness/clunkyness in the front end is. It got better with new mounts but there's still something there pissing me off. Thought some might enjoy watching this- https://gopro.com/v/Z0M6k16kwvK74 My new struts definitely make a little creak, but those were...

Yeah hard to say. It's less about accel/decel though, more going over potholes and bumps (there's a TON of them in the city where I live). The clunking/crashing noise was really obnoxious before swapping the motor mounts, so I suspect it's still something inside the bay shifting around.

Happy to report the motor mount swap went well, wasn't TOO hard although a few bolts were hard to reach and I was using a U-joint and extension with the impact wrench (always a dubious endeavour). Most of the bad clunking went away. There is still some which puzzles me. I wonder how secure...

Yep- it's not "sudden" but we just started getting a wrench "See Manual" with code P0BBE, "Hybrid/EV Battery Pack Voltage Variation" The voltage variation sits around 0.31V at rest after driving a few miles. Funny since I wrote back on Sept 22 it was at 0.17V I will call the dealer soon.

Check out FORScan and the OBDLink EX cable. Also FORScan Lite for smartphones and one of their recommended Bluetooth OBD dongles. Highly recommend having these tools in your arsenal.

Ok I don't know why I didn't just try parts.ford.com, they have more diagrams and stuff- TL;DR the passenger side engine mount with the 3 bolt holes are here- CM5Z6038A That part# matches what I bought online from another Ford dealer, it arrives tomorrow, I'll know then if it's the right one...

The tl;dr for recharge today- 16.79 kWh EtE is where it lands once it stops "charging." So the 20 kWh isn't durable, it takes days to "get" there. The trouble cell #25 sits at 3.80V, with 0.28V variability. Most cells around 3.99-4.0 with #25 at 3.802. (OK) [20:14:59.688] BECM Show Battery...

Woke up with 20.66 kWh EtE, 3.93V min and 0.27V spread. Driving it to work today so this'll be a good test of how durable that "reclaimed" capacity is. edit: I wonder if running that SoC correction procedure did something weird to the BECM... The car went from 20.66 to ~14ish EtE during my...

OBDLink EX in hand now, playing with FORScan. I tried that State of Charge correction service task fwiw. Not sure if it helped. Cells are almost all 4.something volts except #25- (OK) [18:33:09.240] BECM Show Battery Cell Voltages has been started (OK) [18:33:09.279] Cell #1: 4.084 V (OK)...

Well I've kept it on the charger and have not driven it all day.... that's over 24 hours of "balancing" and right now it's up to 18.29 kWh EtE (up from 16.82 when it "finished charging" yesterday), which I find interesting. Earlier in the day it said 17.37, then 17.69, and the GOM went from 42...

Still rebalancing but it's up to 17.2 kWh. That's where I found it the other day. I have some suspension matters to take care of but after that I may try seeing what the dealer would do about this. I'm guessing they'll tell me to pound sand but perhaps starting the conversation and talking up...