110 plug wont charge to 75 miles.

[sleightofhand]

Anyone experiencing issues with the provided 110v cable unable to charge the FFE back up to 75 miles?

New 2014 FFE purchased 2 days ago. The last time I saw 75 miles on the dash board was at the dealership on Saturday.

Both dash board and the app shows 62 miles - 100% charged.

 

[WattsUp]

Both dash board and the app shows 62 miles - 100% charged.

Driving an EV can have a steep learning curve. There is nothing wrong with your car. Rest assured your battery is charging to 100%. You can verify this on the energy screen in the car, accessed through the button with a "leaf" on it. Also, charging at Level 1 or Level 2 makes no difference to the level of charge the ultimately achievable range of the car on the full battery.

All that's happened is that you're driving to aggressively and/or too fast. The 62 miles is only your currently estimated range and depends entirely on your driving style (again, it does not indicate the level of battery charge, just what the car "thinks" you can do with that charge). The car had likely been driven more conservatively before you picked it up from the dealer, and thus was estimating 75 miles on a full charge. But, you've been having a little too much fun since then (driving fast? accelerating hard?). Try driving the car more conservatively for a while. Your range estimate should start to increase.

In order for a range estimate in the 70s, you need to drive using an average of around 250 Wh/mi. You can see your average Wh/mi using the trip meter accessed via the left-hand dash display. I suggest you reset the meter (by holding the left OK button on the steering while) to start a "fresh" average (for display purposes only; this reset does not affect the range estimate) and then drive around. Practice your driving technique until you can consistently average about 250 Wh/mi, and you should start seeing range estimates like 75. Also in the left-hand dash display, the Brake Coach and Energy View may help with cultivating a "good EV driving style".

I suspect your current average Wh/mi is around or above 300, which would explain why your range estimate is in the 60s. On the other hand, if you can average near 200 Wh/mi, you should see estimates in the 80s, and even 90s. ('Course, you actually have to maintain that low level of energy use to actually achieve those ranges.)

Also, turning on the climate controls (especially heat, which consumes a lot of energy from the high-voltage battery) can also significantly affect the range estimate, and can take tens of miles off it. Try curtailing use or turning off the climate controls.

One final reality check: Speed and heat are range killers. In order to get 75 miles of range, you need drive "well" and keep speeds no higher than 60-65 mph, probably with climate off or mostly off. If you're driving around at 70-80 mph everywhere, and blasting the heat all the time, you simply won't achieve anything like 75 miles of range.

 

[jmueller065]

Also, turning on the climate controls (especially heat, which consumes a lot of energy from the high-voltage battery) can also significantly affect the range estimate, and can take tens of miles off it. Try curtailing use or turning off the climate controls.

He hasn't driven in truly cold weather! When its <0F out the heat can take 20 miles or more off the range estimate!

I have a few explanations about the range meter (or "Guess-O-Meter") here:
http://jamiegeek.myevblog.com/2013/10/12/the-guess-o-meter/
and here:
http://jamiegeek.myevblog.com/2013/09/25/butterflies-really-what-your-dashboard-can-tell-you/

 

[sleightofhand]

Ahh yes.... you all are right! I'm guilty... Coming from an ICE car over to the FFE was exactly what the problem was. I tried to be conservative and smoothly brake as well as coast to get the regeneration going. I was able to get better miles. At 100 percent charged - I was able to travel 51 miles and still have 35 miles left according to the guess-o-meter.

Thanks for helping out a noobie..!

 

[v_traveller]

51 miles driven with 35 miles left? Guess you're not a noobie anymore!

 

[Gigi]

I tried to be conservative and smoothly brake as well as coast to get the regeneration going. I was able to get better miles.

After a while, WattsUps' suggestions above become second nature and you don't have to think about them.

I remember someone suggesting that in order to improve gas mileage, you should drive as if there was an egg between your foot and the gas pedal or the brake pedal. Keeping that thought in mind works great for improving range in the FFE.

I use "L" as much as possible for braking. For most of my 45 year driving career, I've had a car with a manual transmission, so downshifting to slow down is an ingrained habit for me. One of the things I keep in mind driving our EV and PHEV is to never let the brake pads touch the rotors until the car is practically stopped. Of course, there are times when I must stop quickly for safety's sake, but for normal driving, I think ahead and slow down gradually before coming to a stop.

Getting low Watt-hours per mile (or longer range) can become like a game. After a while, the techniques become habitual.

When my wife left for work this morning, her range meter read 92 miles. Part of that is moderate spring weather with no need for heat or AC and it being a good temperature for battery efficiency. The rest is driving conservatively.

I hope that you will enjoy your FFE as much as we do, sleightofhand. It's a great car.

 

[WattsUp]

I use "L" as much as possible for braking. For most of my 45 year driving career, I've had a car with a manual transmission, so downshifting to slow down is an ingrained habit for me.

To be clear though, "shifting" to L (which simply engages a pre-set level of additional motor resistance beyond the normal "coasting" resistance of D) is entirely equivalent to pressing the brake pedal enough to achieve the same level of motor resistance. And both will result in the same amount of regeneration.

So, it is just a preference whether you like to use L or the brakes for slowing the car. By no means is L required to get the "maximum regeneration". You can also simply brake smoothly. However, one (potential) disadvantage to "braking" with L is that your brake lights will not come on (by shifting to L), although the car will be slowing down significantly. If somebody is following close behind, I think it would be wiser to use the brake pedal.

One of the things I keep in mind driving our EV and PHEV is to never let the brake pads touch the rotors until the car is practically stopped.

Right, and this still happens even when using the brake pedal, provided the slowing is gradual enough (and the Brake Coach will give you an idea of the tolerance). The car's software uses the brake pedal input to apply motor resistance, creating the illusion that "brakes" are being applied. But, if the called-for braking is too rapid (e.g., you "slam" on the the brakes) the actual pads and rotors will also be engaged.

 

[scoops]

It should also be noted that remaining in L is less efficient than staying in D. The constant increased regen means that instead of keeping the energy as kinetic (forward motion) you're recapturing it into your battery which has efficiency losses...


...L is more fun though :mrgreen:

<scoops-

 

[Gigi]

To be clear though, "shifting" to L (which simply engages a pre-set level of additional motor resistance beyond the normal "coasting" resistance of D) is entirely equivalent to pressing the brake pedal enough to achieve the same level of motor resistance. And both will result in the same amount of regeneration.

So, it is just a preference whether you like to use L or the brakes for slowing the car.

Thanks, WattsUp.