70K miles in ten years of Chicago's weather.

[tim moore]

I have a 2014 FFEV can anyone beat my miles and years??? Plus it was not garage kept and I am still getting a charge mileage of 89 to 69 summer to winter. And original brakes, just tires changed over the years.

 

[vkdyer]

That's fantastic! Maybe I shouldn't have kept mine in the garage.

 

[tim moore]

That's fantastic! Maybe I shouldn't have kept mine in the garage.

I think it has more to do driving it often at 45mph or less, coasting, regenerative braking in low gear and charging twice a day.

 

[Ryan Mlynski]

I have a 2014 FFEV can anyone beat my miles and years??? Plus it was not garage kept and I am still getting a charge mileage of 89 to 69 summer to winter. And original brakes, just tires changed over the years.

I also have a 2014 ffev just bought about six months ago at 58000 miles. Any tips for winter

 

[Anti_Climax]

Yeah, quoting a range estimate doesn't tell us if it's battery capacity, efficiency or both.

You've got a ways to go though:

 

[rjw576]

I think I have you beat...2012 101k, used daily and temperature climate use dependant 45-80 on the guessometer. Original brakes, only have replaced 12v battery, cabin filter and tires. Bought it in 2015 used with 7kmiles for $14k...it just won't quit working!

 

[tim moore]

I also have a 2014 ffev just bought about six months ago at 58000 miles. Any tips for winter

As I said before: I think it has more to do with driving it often at 45mph or less, coasting, regenerative braking in low gear and charging twice a day. I also charge at 120v and 240 v, but another person mentioned 120v doesn't condition the batteries. I leave it plugged in overnight and if I go on a morning trip and can plug in the afternoon I do.

 

[Ryan Mlynski]

As I said before: I think it has more to do with driving it often at 45mph or less, coasting, regenerative braking in low gear and charging twice a day. I also charge at 120v and 240 v, but another person mentioned 120v doesn't condition the batteries. I leave it plugged in overnight and if I go on a morning trip and can plug in the afternoon I do.

I charge the car using the Ford charger that came with it so I imagine that's 120v. What do you mean low gear? It's automatic right?

 

[Dymista2022]

I have a 2014 FFEV can anyone beat my miles and years??? Plus it was not garage kept and I am still getting a charge mileage of 89 to 69 summer to winter. And original brakes, just tires changed over the years.

It seems someone has got efficient driving habits. gj.

 

[tim moore]

I charge the car using the Ford charger that came with it so I imagine that's 120v. What do you mean low gear? It's automatic right?

L is low gear. If you only have a 120v try to find public charger which is 240v and use once a month at least.

 

[Anti_Climax]

As a platform conversion from the ICE focus, they decided to reuse the low gear position to select a more aggressive regen profile. There is only one gear in a static mesh, no clutch or similar.

Just keep in mind that using the L selection doesn't recover more energy. It's power over time - if you load down the drivetrain more aggressively it's gathering more instantaneous power but doing so over a proportionally shorter time. The area under the curve doesn't really change.

 

[tim moore]

I use the L low gear similar to the one pedal driving on my Chevy Bolt. The L brings the car to slow stop, similar to, but not as good as the newer method of one pedal driving on Tesla, Bolt and others. Just to be clear, I drive D, but when I coming a stop light or have to reduce speed in slow traffic I switch to L reduce speed and incorporate regenerative braking. I see the result of the L in the regenerative spinning disc for it for the reduction. Again I do primarily drive in D drive, but when I need to reduce speed, coast or gradual stop I switch to L Low.

 

[Anti_Climax]

Makes sense. Just letting folks know - as others have definitely thought that more aggressive regen equates to more energy recaptured.

I really wonder if it's possible to actually tune it ourselves. There's so much I'd be doing if I had that sort of time to play with it.

 

[Ryan Mlynski]

L is low gear. If you only have a 120v try to find public charger which is 240v and use once a month at least.

I purchased this charger for a backup charger. Should I use it as my primary instead

 

[tim moore]

As a primary charger 120v could be hard. Overnight 120v yes. If you need a quick day time charge a 240v is better.

 

[bkeil84]

That "Low" gear is just a throwback to the shifter actually coming from a gas car. It is only there to increase no throttle regen. I drive mine exclusively in low always. It makes no difference in performance, just that when things are calm on the roads, I can do most of my slowing down with lifting of the accelerator pedel and applying just a tad of brake to make the final stop. I really wish it would engage maximum regen, but somebody somewhere decided different. The first part of the brake pedal also increases regen to assist braking. This just makes the brake pedal a little more complicated. Tesla has no such thing on their brake pedals and all regen is controlled with the go pedal only and can be adjusted less in settings. I absolutely love one pedal driving whenever I get a rental that has it.

 

[Anti_Climax]

It all depends on the mileage you're putting on daily and how much time it spends idle. From a longevity standpoint, the <1.5kW you'd get from the travel charger and the ~6kW you get from L2 aren't likely to differ much for battery wear. Both are well below 1C charging.

 

[met]

2014 FFEV 76,258 miles in 10 years around San Francisco Bay Area.
Mostly charged once a day at work for my round trip of 36miles.
63-73 miles of range depending on the weather, using Michelin Premier A/S tires as the original ones were slippery.

 

[calvinhc]

I drive mine exclusively in low always.

So do I. While it doesn't increase the amount of regen possible, it makes it more probable that you will get more of the regen by not having the blended braking if the brake pedal start using friction braking sooner. Unfortunately, the "brake score" that is displayed only does its calculation when the brake pedal is pressed for at least several seconds. I do like the increased deceleration without brake lights to get a tail-gaiter to back off.

I've had my 2017 FFE for 7 years and one month now, and I'm nearing 158,000 km. The battery warranty ends at 160,000 (100,000 miles) which will probably be sometime in February. I'm finding the range is pretty much as it was when new, about 120 km in the winter and close to 200 km on warm but not hot days (Toronto weather).

I've had a few repairs needed, naturally after the extended warranty ended, but that's my fault for missing that the six-year warranty had only 100,000 km and not 150 as our ICE Focus had. One was a coolant diverter valve (the FFE has two of them). I had the old one returned to me and I opened it to find one wire to its motor broke off, so now I have a spare.

I had the right wiper motor fail. Good thing the FFE uses separate wiper motors, since the working one left the car drivable in the rain while the replacement was on order. I replaced it myself easily enough and calibrated it with Forscan.

The most expensive repair was the A/C evaporator which started to leak a year and a half ago. On an ICE vehicle, I might have lived without A/C, but an EV needs it to cool the battery. I want to get another two years out of the FFE to make that repair worth the cost.

I've also had to replace the HID headlamps. As for brakes, only the front pads and rotors were replaced at 133,000 km. The pads had nearly 4 mm left, so they could have lasted longer, but the rotors were pretty pock-marked from little use (this past week, the lifetime regen total just hit 20,000 km). For comparison, our ICE Focus had all four brakes done at 65k and again at 128k.

 

[Anti_Climax]

One was a coolant diverter valve (the FFE has two of them).

It has 3 - battery loop recirculation, cabin heater recirculation and radiator bypass.