Charge Fault - won't charge

[tinilk]

Carbuff and I have both had our FFE's sitting at our respective dealer's lots most of the time since January this year, while they've attempted to diagnose them. (His dealer was awesome enough to admit defeat and buy his 2013 back from him, while my 2014 was just towed back this week for its third visit.) The main wiring harnesses on both of our cars have been replaced *more than once* due to the dealership breaking tabs on the connectors while replacing the harness.

However, through all these months of waiting neither of us has had to pay a dime since the cars are covered under the 8-year EV component warranty. I don't see any reason Ford corporate shouldn't cover 100% of the parts & labor cost of attempting to repair your car. If your dealer can't point out any non-warranty parts on your receipt, you have no obligation to pay them anything, it's between them and Ford.

 

[BamaEV]

This post thread has obviously died a long time ago (2018), but I thought I would update it with my own story. I own a 2013 FFE with 67K miles. I love driving the car, but like the original post in this thread, my car stopped taking a charge. Ironically, I just got a new battery replaced under warranty 9 months ago, so that was great. However, this summer, my car passed out of warranty, so now nothing is covered.

Anyway, my car stopped taking a charge. I would plug in, the ring would show that a charge initiated with a slow pulse, then it would start blinking, indicating a charge fault. I originally tried to reset it by disconnecting the 12V battery. That didn't work. I took it to the dealer. They told me it was the wiring harness and that it would cost $4500 to replace it!!!! Yikes.

Now I read that TexiCali was charged $1200. Now I know that was 2018, but still, that is quite a difference.

I brought my car home and plugged it into my Forscan reader, and I am getting a U3000 - Control Module code in the SOBDM.

At this point, I'm not sure what to do. Perhaps I'll call around to some other dealers to see what they would charge for the repair.

 

[Anti_Climax]

Is U3000 the entire code or is there a colon and some extra numbers?

Have you looked at the harness itself? Reseated any connections on it? If you pulled the harness off you could use it as a template to build a new one from scratch as a last resort, and it's not gonna cost $1200 to do it.

I can point you to some of the connectors if it comes to that.