Disconnecting Lower Battery Pack HV Connector

Heima · Apr 17, 2023

So on occasion I inspect the HV connectors and such, just to make sure no corrosion is happening.
I wanted to disconnect the HV cable to the lower battery pack, but just could not do it.
I was able to push in the very tiny blue tab and then slide the larger blue tab that releases the handle, but I could not get the handle to raise. It was like the large blue tab needed to slide more, but I could not make it happen. Tried poking and prodding all over the connector, but though the large blue tab was definitely separated from the release handle, something was preventing the release handle from moving.

For those of you who have removed the lower pack, how did you get that handle raised to disconnect the HV connector? Thanks

Heima · Apr 20, 2023

Bumping because I would like to do this Saturday.
Surely somebody has disconnected the HV harness from the lower battery connector, right?

Anti_Climax · Apr 20, 2023

Only had to pull the disconnects, can't help ya.

PandH · Mar 21, 2024

I tried to disconnect that connector on the left side and only succeeded in breaking it. Darn. That being said, the one on the front of the lower battery unplugged really easily - just the way you said - pull back the blue tab, and then lift the handle, pull off.

On my car after six years, these connectors appear to be hard, brittle, and stuck. And the metal inside the connector was perfect - no corrosion at all.

On my battery it's the FOMOCO 40 pin connector on the front of the lower battery that has water ingress.

Does anyone know where to get the 250A connector, please? It is part number 13827756 from Aptiv (formerly Delphi). There are two on the lower battery pack (left side and front), and I don't see it used anywhere else... Picture is below. Battery end is part number: 13827768

BTW, the other connectors on the left side of the lower battery are HV280 series connectors from Aptiv, and you can buy them at Mouser. About $100 per end.

The FOMOCO is part number F57B-14A624-?? - where the ?? seems to be letters, and denotes what bit, male, female, strain relief - not sure where to get that yet - the wiring harness is $1200 and "backordered." Wondering who makes that for Ford...Yazaki, maybe?

If anyone has any leads, I sure be grateful! Cheers.

davideos · Mar 22, 2024

Heima said:
So on occasion I inspect the HV connectors and such, just to make sure no corrosion is happening.
I wanted to disconnect the HV cable to the lower battery pack, but just could not do it.
I was able to push in the very tiny blue tab and then slide the larger blue tab that releases the handle, but I could not get the handle to raise. It was like the large blue tab needed to slide more, but I could not make it happen. Tried poking and prodding all over the connector, but though the large blue tab was definitely separated from the release handle, something was preventing the release handle from moving.

For those of you who have removed the lower pack, how did you get that handle raised to disconnect the HV connector? Thanks

Sorry I didn't see your post. These connectors are awful and I'd suggest that you don't need to inspect them. They have gotten brittle over the years and they break. The dealer destroyed the one on the driver-side lower battery and I cracked the lifting handle on the lower battery front. I don't recall a large blue tab. Just the little blue one should be it. At least I thought. If you do take them off, put a little grease on the pivot point for the lever. It will be on the receiving connector attached to the battery itself.

When I replaced the lower battery contactors, I repaired the connector arm that I cracked, but I also had trouble getting it back on...not off. But I think the problem may be similar. When putting the connector on, there are some tabs/indentations that help to make sure the connectors are properly mated before the lever will go down. I put as much force as I dared to close it down but it just didn't want to go. After several attempts and figuring it out, I ended up having to file down some of these little tabs so the lever arm would go down. It didn't affect the mechanism nor its holding force. My theory is that the connector just warped a little over time making things not work quite as well as they did when they were new.

I'd say to leave it if you can to prevent from damaging it. But, if you do need to remove it, be patient and try wiggling the lever arm. Also, it is the same connector as the one by the driver side rear wheel. Take the wheel off and look at the connector closely and try to figure out what isn't giving. Try to rotate the lever at a point as close to the pivot point as possible to prevent breakage.

I've attached 3 photos. The one with the zip ties is the one the dealer destroyed. I added the stainless steel on the sides and attached using the screws that hold the connector in place. This has been working perfectly for the last year and a half. The other 2 photos are the connector under the car. You can see where I cracked it. This is the before photo. I fixed with epoxy and fiberglass and is working well. Anyway, hopefully the closeup can help with understanding the connector. But as I said, the little blue slider is all that you need to pull back and then lift the lever. There might be some other low friction tabs to help hold the connector down in case the blue slider fails. And lastly, when you put it back together, put a little grease on the pivot point. That will help get it on and off again.