New/used for roughly 100 mile (soon 2b 70) daily round trip?

[michael]

Yes, Turbo Cord will charge approximately 3.3 KW, can completely refill battery in around 8 hours. It's a good solution and I do it exactly that way most days. Added advantage is you are less likely to be competing for access to a 220 outlet.

 

[blackbeasst]

I live in athens, ga and work in lawrenceville. ga. my daily round trip commute is just shy of 100 miles with 90% of it on hwy 316. come august that will be cut down to about 70 miles RT after we move.

FWIW I've driven from Midtown to Athens (70 miles) and had about 18 miles left. Speed matters; I was driving pretty relaxed (not my usual style). Not a trip I'd want to do every day. Would not be comfortable in the winter. On the way back I knew that I could go faster so I ended up with ~7 miles left.

Since your facilities guy said he could give you your own breaker... why not a 240v circut?

That's a great suggestion. Then you could use a TurboCord 240 V charger since it's portable to charge at work. That would get you about 10 miles per hour of charge I believe.

im not sure we have anything that is currently a 240 to tap in to and get it close to a parking spot conducive for me to park in. thats where the problem lies. he isn't sure if its going to be cost effective enough to try and add it.

what hardware would be needed if we can tap in to something thats 240v?

and scoops, im just off riverside in lawrenceville and will moving to just outside the athens by-pass. 35 miles from door to door straight down 316. in the winter would the 35 miles still be pushing it if the heat were running?

 

[hybridbear]

im not sure we have anything that is currently a 240 to tap in to and get it close to a parking spot conducive for me to park in. thats where the problem lies. he isn't sure if its going to be cost effective enough to try and add it.

what hardware would be needed if we can tap in to something thats 240v?

All you need to make an adequate 240 V circuit is two 15 amp 120 V breakers that are available. If he's planning to wire a separate 120 V circuit for you it is possible that there are two 120 V circuits available that could be wired together into one 240 V circuit for you.

 

[blackbeasst]

im not sure we have anything that is currently a 240 to tap in to and get it close to a parking spot conducive for me to park in. thats where the problem lies. he isn't sure if its going to be cost effective enough to try and add it.

what hardware would be needed if we can tap in to something thats 240v?

All you need to make an adequate 240 V circuit is two 15 amp 120 V breakers that are available. If he's planning to wire a separate 120 V circuit for you it is possible that there are two 120 V circuits available that could be wired together into one 240 V circuit for you.

well i wouldn't say he's planning on a separate circuit for me/this setup. i'll have to pick his brain in the morning and see what we have available and what cost if any i'd have to pay in getting this connected :shock:

 

[michael]

It's possibly even easier than that. If he's willing to give you a dedicated 120 circuit, there will already be three wires (black, white, green). All he has to do is install a 20 Amp dual breaker in the panel, and move the white and black wires to that new breaker. He marks the white wire with colored electrical tape to show that it's special, not a neutral.

At the outlet end, replace the normal 5-20 outlet with a 6-20 outlet (special 220 outlet but available at any home depot, etc) and you are ready to rock and roll.

I've done this at friends' houses to give myself a place to charge up on the other side of town.

 

[twscrap]

Not to scare you, but...

Even with a 70 mile commute you may find that you have issues making on extremely cold winter days. While these are few and far between in GA, there are going to be days where leaving your house full, and charging all day won't get you home as range drops significantly on those bitterly cold days. When we first picked up our FFE in March, there were quite a few days where I could only go 50-55 miles on a charge. On those types of days, 8 hours at 110V isn't going to give you 30 miles, it will be significantly less. And while temps are colder here in CT than Georgia, I can almost guarantee there will be days where you won't make it with just 110v at work.

Solutions (other than an at work one)? Level 2 charging on your route - even a quick 20-30 minute top off with an L2 EVSE will likely give you enough juice on the worst days to make it. Or, the aforementioned Leaf and DCQC option.

 

[longschlng22]

Don't forget you can get peach pass access as well. If you aren't in the higher tax bracket it would be more prudent to just go with a lease so that you could get 11k off of the purchase price and maximizing the federal tax rebate. You always have the option to buy the car at the end of 3 year lease unless they give you some funky purchase price instead of the actual residual. Also, you can negotiate off the msrp. Essentially when you quote 30k after 6 k off, that was based on the msrp of 36k. You can do much better off of that just on truecar.com alone. They have dealers agreement for around 32 k before any incentives. You can actually haggle below that as well as some other posters have. But 32k with 11k off incentives, you are already looking at below 23 k with tax, title, lease fees, etc. The residual will be around 16k for 15k miles/year. You still qualify for the 5k Georgia rebate with just a 2 year lease as well. It is also rollable up to 3 or 5 years for the state of Georgia. (I forgot which one). That would bring down the cost to 23 k - 5 k = 18 k. Your lease would be almost 2 k / 36 months + tax. *sigh* I wish I lived in Georgia for this alone. Hopefully I'm not wrong on any of these numbers though. Guys?

 

[blackbeasst]

Not to scare you, but...

Even with a 70 mile commute you may find that you have issues making on extremely cold winter days. While these are few and far between in GA, there are going to be days where leaving your house full, and charging all day won't get you home as range drops significantly on those bitterly cold days. When we first picked up our FFE in March, there were quite a few days where I could only go 50-55 miles on a charge. On those types of days, 8 hours at 110V isn't going to give you 30 miles, it will be significantly less. And while temps are colder here in CT than Georgia, I can almost guarantee there will be days where you won't make it with just 110v at work.

Solutions (other than an at work one)? Level 2 charging on your route - even a quick 20-30 minute top off with an L2 EVSE will likely give you enough juice on the worst days to make it. Or, the aforementioned Leaf and DCQC option.

the 70 miles is RT. it will be 35 one way. i might have been a little confusing in my thread title! i would hope i can make it 35 miles in even the dead of GA winters with heat on after leaving home on full and charging even on a 110 for 8 hours

 

[blackbeasst]

Don't forget you can get peach pass access as well. If you aren't in the higher tax bracket it would be more prudent to just go with a lease so that you could get 11k off of the purchase price and maximizing the federal tax rebate. You always have the option to buy the car at the end of 3 year lease unless they give you some funky purchase price instead of the actual residual. Also, you can negotiate off the msrp. Essentially when you quote 30k after 6 k off, that was based on the msrp of 36k. You can do much better off of that just on truecar.com alone. They have dealers agreement for around 32 k before any incentives. You can actually haggle below that as well as some other posters have. But 32k with 11k off incentives, you are already looking at below 23 k with tax, title, lease fees, etc. The residual will be around 16k for 15k miles/year. You still qualify for the 5k Georgia rebate with just a 2 year lease as well. It is also rollable up to 3 or 5 years for the state of Georgia. (I forgot which one). That would bring down the cost to 23 k - 5 k = 18 k. Your lease would be almost 2 k / 36 months + tax. *sigh* I wish I lived in Georgia for this alone. Hopefully I'm not wrong on any of these numbers though. Guys?

no peach pass on highway 316

and as long as i could get an 18k miles/year lease on the cheap i'd do it in a heartbeat!

 

[longschlng22]

The residual for 18 k/year for an ffe should be around 14 k then. That would be 4 k /36 months + tax. That would be around $111 / month before taxes. That is after the 5 k tax rebate though so that would not be realized until tax time. I'm trying to convince my bro-in law to do this since he lives in Georgia. Night time electric time of usage charge rates are also about $0.01 per kilowatt in Georgia. It's about $0.15 super off peak here in San Diego.

 

[blackbeasst]

The residual for 18 k/year for an ffe should be around 14 k then. That would be 4 k /36 months + tax. That would be around $111 / month before taxes. That is after the 5 k tax rebate though so that would not be realized until tax time. I'm trying to convince my bro-in law to do this since he lives in Georgia. Night time electric time of usage charge rates are also about $0.01 per kilowatt in Georgia. It's about $0.15 super off peak here in San Diego.

im not up on all the lease and financial jargon. whats $111/month?

 

[longschlng22]

I meant 18,000 miles per year would have a residual of roughly $14,000 after 3 years. If you are able to get a negotiated price of $32,000 before any incentives and do a lease, then you should be at under $23,000 after the $11,000 (another $500 for lease conquest) lease incentive, title, docs, lease option. You would be billed on a per month basis of 23k - 14k at 9k over 3 years. That equates to about $250 per month + taxes to lease the FFE.

Since the state of Georgia allows for $5000 in rebates, over the long run you would get back $139 per month spanned across 3 years. This effectively makes it 250 - 139 = $111 per month to lease the FFE, plus taxes (on the $250).

 

[blackbeasst]

I meant 18,000 miles per year would have a residual of roughly $14,000 after 3 years. If you are able to get a negotiated price of $32,000 before any incentives and do a lease, then you should be at under $23,000 after the $11,000 (another $500 for lease conquest) lease incentive, title, docs, lease option. You would be billed on a per month basis of 23k - 14k at 9k over 3 years. That equates to about $250 per month + taxes to lease the FFE.

Since the state of Georgia allows for $5000 in rebates, over the long run you would get back $139 per month spanned across 3 years. This effectively makes it 250 - 139 = $111 per month to lease the FFE, plus taxes (on the $250).

hmmm, interesting. couple things though, do all dealers have the same lease options? and are all FFE's leaseable?

also, are you calculating any money down in that $250? if not the lowest monthly payment i see on fords website is $319:

Base MSRP 1 $35,170
Total of Options2 0
Destination Charges $825
Estimated Capitalized Cost3 $35,995
Available Incentives4
-
$11,000
Net Price 5 $24,995
Down Payment
-
0
Net Trade-In Value6
-
0
Adjusted Capitalized Cost7 $24,995
319 $
Monthly Payment8

36 month term, 18,000 miles/yr, $964 due at signing9

 

[longschlng22]

You are basing things off of msrp for those lease numbers. You can always negotiate like a regular car purchase. All new car purchases should be leasable. Also my numbers are just rough and based off the truecar.com price. I also forgot to add the money factor/interest rate. I believe it is very low at the moment, maybe around 0.25%. I'm also calculating just first month's payment as the money down. If you split 9k by 35 months then that would be around 257 a month with 0 down before taxes. The taxes depends on your zip code and how your state does things.

On another note, dealers can up the money factor if they wanted to, but not the residual numbers. The residual and base money factor is set month to month by the manufacturer. If you have low credit scores that could affect your values as well.

 

[blackbeasst]

thanks for the info schlng.

i for sure have a couple months to do more research as i can't really do anything now since i don't want to pay to put a 240 in my current rental house. might just go by the ford place just to see what numbers they throw at me as far as a lease and report back here for thoughts on the deal

 

[twscrap]

Not to scare you, but...

Even with a 70 mile commute you may find that you have issues making on extremely cold winter days. While these are few and far between in GA, there are going to be days where leaving your house full, and charging all day won't get you home as range drops significantly on those bitterly cold days. When we first picked up our FFE in March, there were quite a few days where I could only go 50-55 miles on a charge. On those types of days, 8 hours at 110V isn't going to give you 30 miles, it will be significantly less. And while temps are colder here in CT than Georgia, I can almost guarantee there will be days where you won't make it with just 110v at work.

Solutions (other than an at work one)? Level 2 charging on your route - even a quick 20-30 minute top off with an L2 EVSE will likely give you enough juice on the worst days to make it. Or, the aforementioned Leaf and DCQC option.

the 70 miles is RT. it will be 35 one way. i might have been a little confusing in my thread title! i would hope i can make it 35 miles in even the dead of GA winters with heat on after leaving home on full and charging even on a 110 for 8 hours

It wasn't confusing. My point was that it is entirely possible that there will be days (not many of them) where you may not make even 70 miles after charging all day at 110v. You will likely need a backup plan for any days in the teens. Spent a decade in Auburn, and even that far south there were a couple of days every year that would have made the commute you're describing a bit challenging - the last thing you want is to get stuck on one of those days a few miles from home, after not being able to run the heat much during your commute.

And be aware that the problem will only get worse as the vehicle ages.

 

[jloucks]

So long as you plug in at work you will be just fine.

100 Mile Round Trip (50 mile leg) - Plugging in at work a must at all times. Heater may have to be curtailed a little bit (only run 70% of the time). The FFE heater has a HUGE battery penalty. AC should be ok at 100%. Might have to limit speed to 55mph. Hmm,, at 120v at work,, you might not get a full recharge in 9 hours... so might have to drop heater to 30-50%.

70 Mile Round Trip (35 mile leg) - Plugging in at work a must during heater/AC weather or highway speeds. No heater/AC curtailing required. If average speed is 40 and no heater/AC can do it without plugging in. No speed limiting (well, except for the built in limiter of course).

I have a 40-46 (depend on traffic I tweak it) mile round trip. I cannot charge at work so I have to keep an eye on things. I run the heater 80% and have never had an issue. AC 100% and have like 40+ miles to spare!!

The car seems to learn your route, the weather, and your driving style. It evolves it's range ratings. For a while it always said I only had 65 miles on any given day. Now it is up to 85. It seems to know I do almost no freeway driving. Like others have mentioned, driving fast is also hard on the battery. 75mph is no bueno on your range. Very counter intuitive... at least before you thing about all the air you are pushing around at those speeds.

 

[blackbeasst]

So long as you plug in at work you will be just fine.

100 Mile Round Trip (50 mile leg) - Plugging in at work a must at all times. Heater may have to be curtailed a little bit (only run 70% of the time). The FFE heater has a HUGE battery penalty. AC should be ok at 100%. Might have to limit speed to 55mph. Hmm,, at 120v at work,, you might not get a full recharge in 9 hours... so might have to drop heater to 30-50%.

70 Mile Round Trip (35 mile leg) - Plugging in at work a must during heater/AC weather or highway speeds. No heater/AC curtailing required. If average speed is 40 and no heater/AC can do it without plugging in. No speed limiting (well, except for the built in limiter of course).

I have a 40-46 (depend on traffic I tweak it) mile round trip. I cannot charge at work so I have to keep an eye on things. I run the heater 80% and have never had an issue. AC 100% and have like 40+ miles to spare!!

The car seems to learn your route, the weather, and your driving style. It evolves it's range ratings. For a while it always said I only had 65 miles on any given day. Now it is up to 85. It seems to know I do almost no freeway driving. Like others have mentioned, driving fast is also hard on the battery. 75mph is no bueno on your range. Very counter intuitive... at least before you thing about all the air you are pushing around at those speeds.

yeah i've all but decided im not going to do anything until i move due to not wanting to add a 240 at my current rental house. and its no problem plugging in here at work to a 120 for 8 hours at a time. im gonna push for a 240 just to knock it out for the future. not worried too much about heat for a 45-50 minute drive. so i should be good! and i don't drive 75mph in my current car. too many coppers roaming that stretch of highway.

i got 2 months to find a 2014 and get a good lease number