Remote start not working

[ITLists]

New problem now since the 12v battery change: remote start not working properly.

Car starts remotely and shuts down after few seconds. Tried with key fob and FordPass app - same result with both.
I've tried setting Climate Control option to Auto and Restore Last Setting.
Tried remote start with heater on and with heater off.
Had the car plugged in to L2 and unplugged as well.

None of these combinations makes any difference.
Anyone experience this behaviour?

 

[Anti_Climax]

I have and it relates to the 12V battery voltage.

What type of battery did you install? Flooded cell, absorbed glass mat (AGM), something else?

 

[ITLists]

I have and it relates to the 12V battery voltage.

What type of battery did you install? Flooded cell, absorbed glass mat (AGM), something else?

Regular battery, group 26R. Flooded cell.

What was your fix?

 

[Anti_Climax]

The Electric was set up to run an AGM instead of flooded cell, since it would not have the normal starter cycle current draw to clear the plates.

Flooded cells float at a slightly lower voltage, so a fully charged flooded cell battery will look like an undercharged AGM. They also run at sightly different charge voltages - the slightly higher value for AGM risks hydrogen outgassing on a flooded cell.

My remote start fails in the middle of the summer because the AZ heat causes enough voltage droop to create the same fault.

There should be a config option for the 12V battery type, but it's probably a ForScan config setting. Though knowing the reasoning for using AGM, I'd recommend using that rather than switching to flooded cell.

 

[ITLists]

The Electric was set up to run an AGM instead of flooded cell, since it would not have the normal starter cycle current draw to clear the plates.

Flooded cells float at a slightly lower voltage, so a fully charged flooded cell battery will look like an undercharged AGM. They also run at sightly different charge voltages - the slightly higher value for AGM risks hydrogen outgassing on a flooded cell.

My remote start fails in the middle of the summer because the AZ heat causes enough voltage droop to create the same fault.

There should be a config option for the 12V battery type, but it's probably a ForScan config setting. Though knowing the reasoning for using AGM, I'd recommend using that rather than switching to flooded cell.

Wow had no idea about this!
So is the stock battery AGM?

 

[Anti_Climax]

Correct

 

[ITLists]

The Electric was set up to run an AGM instead of flooded cell, since it would not have the normal starter cycle current draw to clear the plates.

Flooded cells float at a slightly lower voltage, so a fully charged flooded cell battery will look like an undercharged AGM. They also run at sightly different charge voltages - the slightly higher value for AGM risks hydrogen outgassing on a flooded cell.

My remote start fails in the middle of the summer because the AZ heat causes enough voltage droop to create the same fault.

There should be a config option for the 12V battery type, but it's probably a ForScan config setting. Though knowing the reasoning for using AGM, I'd recommend using that rather than switching to flooded cell.

I checked with local Ford dealer, they say its not an AGM battery. The stock 67R is a regular flooded cell battery.

The 26R is slightly smaller than the 67R so possible that it may not be providing enough power for remote start.

 

[Anti_Climax]

There is no possible way remote starting the electric focus needs anywhere close to the amount of power required to actually run the starter of an ICE vehicle.

I could well be misinformed about the stock chemistry, but I speak from experience that remote starting and immediately stopping is due to the battery voltage being below the expected threshold. During the summer it regularly throws a diagnostic code after failing to remote start. I'd guess winter is just as bad for others.

On it's own, it's actually very dumb, because it shuts off AFTER it has closed the main contactor and can start topping up the 12V battery from the DCDC converter. It's a behavior carried over from the ICE platform that is intended to save a low 12V battery instead of potentially killing it by running the starter unsuccessfully.

Easy enough to test if you have a battery tender or similar. Put on and see if it remote starts successfully. You can also try issuing other commands through the app first to see if giving it a chance to contact ahead of the remote start helps it see a proper voltage.

 

[ITLists]

There is no possible way remote starting the electric focus needs anywhere close to the amount of power required to actually run the starter of an ICE vehicle.

I could well be misinformed about the stock chemistry, but I speak from experience that remote starting and immediately stopping is due to the battery voltage being below the expected threshold. During the summer it regularly throws a diagnostic code after failing to remote start. I'd guess winter is just as bad for others.

On it's own, it's actually very dumb, because it shuts off AFTER it has closed the main contactor and can start topping up the 12V battery from the DCDC converter. It's a behavior carried over from the ICE platform that is intended to save a low 12V battery instead of potentially killing it by running the starter unsuccessfully.

Easy enough to test if you have a battery tender or similar. Put on and see if it remote starts successfully. You can also try issuing other commands through the app first to see if giving it a chance to contact ahead of the remote start helps it see a proper voltage.

Yes I agree with everything you're written above... will check the battery voltage in a day or two and report back. What should it read on a healthy battery?

 

[Anti_Climax]

I have not been able to isolate the specific voltage threshold. If possible, pop the hood when you park it so you don't have to "wake it up" opening the door before you test.

I would check the voltage while it's on and right after shutting off, so you can know how much it's down if/when it fails.

 

[ITLists]

I have not been able to isolate the specific voltage threshold. If possible, pop the hood when you park it so you don't have to "wake it up" opening the door before you test.

I would check the voltage while it's on and right after shutting off, so you can know how much it's down if/when it fails.

With a battery tender attached, the battery voltage when off was 13.1. Dropped to 12.8 when I attempted remote start; this time the remote start failed immediately and didn't start at all. The battery tender is charging the battery right now. Will see how that goes.

Battery tender shows FULL (presumably somewhere in the high 13s or 14V). Tried remote start again, same thing - immediate fail with a horn beep. Doesn't even start for a few seconds like before. After a few attempts, hooked up the tender again and it read 12.5v. Charging back up once again.

Seems strange to me...

 

[moquiti]

Is there the capability to reset the BMS, and perhaps resolve issues with the remote not functioning as expected?

 

[ITLists]

Is there the capability to reset the BMS, and perhaps resolve issues with the remote not functioning as expected?

How is the reset performed? Master Reset in Sync?

 

[Anti_Climax]

Master reset in sync is only for the infotainment. If it was only a problem trying to remote start through the app, that might be a thing to try, but it has nothing to do with BMS or the fob remote start.

Looks like there is a process for resetting it without OBD, but I can't vouch for it. I will note that after getting my battery replaced to try and stop this problem during the summer heat, the reset didn't have and noticeable effect.

https://youtu.be/BiBBDnTUcIY

 

[ITLists]

Master reset in sync is only for the infotainment. If it was only a problem trying to remote start through the app, that might be a thing to try, but it has nothing to do with BMS or the fob remote start.

Looks like there is a process for resetting it without OBD, but I can't vouch for it. I will note that after getting my battery replaced to try and stop this problem during the summer heat, the reset didn't have and noticeable effect.

Thanks.
The non-OBD2 methods didn't work so I reset it using FORscan. Got success message but unfortunately the remote start still fails after few seconds.
Looks like it'll be a trip to the dealer.

Appreciate everyone's help on this!

 

[mdfocus]

If a different batter is used with a different cc amp capacity the car will need to be reprogrammed for it.

 

[ITLists]

If a different batter is used with a different cc amp capacity the car will need to be reprogrammed for it.

I see. Can that be done easily via FORscan?

 

[Anti_Climax]

Keep in mind that these won't necessarily fix it, so don't get your hopes up.

Mine happens with the manufacturer specified battery even after a BMS reset.

 

[ITLists]

Keep in mind that these won't necessarily fix it, so don't get your hopes up.

Mine happens with the manufacturer specified battery even after a BMS reset.

Fair enough... worth a try though. Do you know how to set battery parameters through FORscan? I'll search online too...

 

[ITLists]

Below are two DTCs pulled from FORscan.

This one pops up when attempting remote start:

===BdyCM DTC P1594:04-28===
Code: P1594 - Forced Engine Shutdown - Remote Start System Fault, No Unattended Vehicle Timeout

Additional Fault Symptom:
 - System Internal Failures

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Body Control Module

 Freeze Frame  #1:
-EVENT_TIME: 171327099 s (Sun Jan 22 14:46:28 2023) - Event time
-TOTAL_DISTANCE: 85056 km - Total Distance
-MODULE_VOLTAGE: 13.0 V - Control Module Voltage
-INCAR_TEMPERATURE: 18 °C - In car temperature
-PWR_MODE_QF: Power Mode OK  - Power Mode Quality Factor
-PWR_MODE_KEY: Key Recently Out  - Power Mode Key State
-DTC U3003:16 set - Battery Voltage Low: FALSE  - DTC U3003:16 set - Battery Voltage Low
-DTC U0515:00 set - Invalid data from RFA: FALSE  - DTC U0515:00 set - Invalid data from RFA
-DTC U0293:00 set - Lost com w/ PCM/SOBDMC: FALSE  - DTC U0293:00 set - Lost com w/ PCM/SOBDMC
-DTC U0155:00 set - Lost com w/ IPC: FALSE  - DTC U0155:00 set - Lost com w/ IPC
-DTC U0101:00 set - Lost com w/ TCM: FALSE  - DTC U0101:00 set - Lost com w/ TCM
-DTC U0100:00 set - Lost com w/ PCM: FALSE  - DTC U0100:00 set - Lost com w/ PCM
-CRASH_FLAG: FALSE  - CRASH_FLAG
-ALRM_MODE_ACT: FALSE  - ALRM_MODE_ACT
-DTC U3003:17 set - Battery Voltage High: FALSE  - DTC U3003:17 set - Battery Voltage High
-DTC U0101:00 set - Lost com w/ BEV TCM: FALSE  - DTC U0101:00 set - Lost com w/ BEV TCM
-EngAout_N_Actl reach Rstart max speed: FALSE  - EngAout_N_Actl reach Rstart max speed
-Engine Speed QF not ok: FALSE  - Engine Speed QF not ok
-HOOD_OPEN: FALSE  - HOOD_OPEN
-PATS System error: FALSE  - PATS System error
-PATS malfunction - PCM/BCM Com error: FALSE  - PATS malfunction - PCM/BCM Com error
-PWR_SYS_STAT: TRUE  - PWR_SYS_STAT
-Rem Start disabled - BCM/IPC com error: FALSE  - Rem Start disabled - BCM/IPC com error
-PATS target ID not stored: FALSE  - PATS target ID not stored
-Vehicle Speed not zero or bad ABS data: FALSE  - Vehicle Speed not zero or bad ABS data
-Bad speed signal from ABS - ABS failure: FALSE  - Bad speed signal from ABS - ABS failure
===END BdyCM DTC P1594:04-28===

This one is most likely the root cause?

===BdyCM DTC U1007:00-2F===
Code: U1007 - Lost Communication With Battery Monitoring Sensor 'A'

Status: 
 - DTC Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Body Control Module

 Freeze Frame  #1:
-EVENT_TIME: 171326993 s (Sun Jan 22 14:44:42 2023) - Event time
-TOTAL_DISTANCE: 85056 km - Total Distance
-MODULE_VOLTAGE: 13.3 V - Control Module Voltage
-INCAR_TEMPERATURE: 19 °C - In car temperature
-PWR_MODE_QF: Power Mode OK  - Power Mode Quality Factor
-PWR_MODE_KEY: Ignition On  - Power Mode Key State
===END BdyCM DTC U1007:00-2F===