Leasing in GA (continuation from other thread)

[blackbeasst]

bear, you going through swapalease.com?

 

[hybridbear]

bear, you going through swapalease.com?

Nope, this thread. I corresponded directly with Susan.

 

[blackbeasst]

bear, you going through swapalease.com?

Nope, this thread. I corresponded directly with Susan.

dern she had 2? she still got one left?!

 

[hybridbear]

bear, you going through swapalease.com?

Nope, this thread. I corresponded directly with Susan.

dern she had 2? she still got one left?!

Unfortunately not. The white one went first and we just completed the transition on the blue one. It should be picked up by the shipper within a couple days and in MN in less than a week. But others have posted similar threads. You might be able to find one that is available still.

 

[blackbeasst]

Unfortunately not. The white one went first and we just completed the transition on the blue one. It should be picked up by the shipper within a couple days and in MN in less than a week. But others have posted similar threads. You might be able to find one that is available still.

looks like all the others going back to march are spoken for. leasetrader.com and swapalease have a couple on each but no 14's and they are more than the $340 i could get a fresh one for. worse case i get a 14 and if i can't fulfill the lease i throw it on here and those 2 websites. hope if that happens that these are still in high demand!

 

[hybridbear]

Unfortunately not. The white one went first and we just completed the transition on the blue one. It should be picked up by the shipper within a couple days and in MN in less than a week. But others have posted similar threads. You might be able to find one that is available still.

looks like all the others going back to march are spoken for. leasetrader.com and swapalease have a couple on each but no 14's and they are more than the $340 i could get a fresh one for. worse case i get a 14 and if i can't fulfill the lease i throw it on here and those 2 websites. hope if that happens that these are still in high demand!

I was glad to find one outside of the websites because you have to pay to list the car & you have to pay to contact the seller. You can view cars on there available, but if you want to contact the owner you must pay either company a fee. I don't like that business model. I also believe that if you want to get rid of your car you must pay them before you list it which means that you pay regardless of whether you actually "sell" it or not. I don't like that.

 

[blackbeasst]

well it looks like the 240 at work isn't gonna happen at this point in time. which leads to me only having a 240 at home after we move august 1.

however, these cars seem to be flying off the shelf pretty quick. there is one available on the other side of atlanta so i'd have to negotiate shipping it to athens since theres no way it would make it on a single charge.

with that being said, maybe someone can do the math (if it hasn't already been done in this thread) that if i have a 100% battery on a monday morning and drive 50 miles to work and plug in to a 110/120 for 8 hours, will i:

1: have enough juice to get home
2: have enough juice to get home and then charge for roughly 12 hours to get back to 100% to start it all over again

 

[jmueller065]

I have a page where you can put two addresses in and it will estimate the power consumption for the route:
http://jamiegeek.myevblog.com/2014/01/13/estimating-power-consumption/

Then you'd just need a charge rate of 50 miles/8 hours or 6.25 Miles/hour to replenish that.

 

[blackbeasst]

I have a page where you can put two addresses in and it will estimate the power consumption for the route:
http://jamiegeek.myevblog.com/2014/01/13/estimating-power-consumption/

Then you'd just need a charge rate of 50 miles/8 hours or 6.25 Miles/hour to replenish that.

neat website. bookmarked for when i do finally get my FFE.

im still a noob when it comes to the calculations for all this, but here's what it comes out to:



in a nutshell, is it doable in my current situation to use a 110 at home/work for about a month?

 

[jmueller065]

My default assumptions for that calculator were:

• 230 Wh/mile average consumption
  19.5 kWh battery usable

Given those assumptions it calculated just over 1/2 the battery would be used (56%). The Ford spec'd time of empty to full on 120V is ~20 hours. That would mean 10 hours for 50%.
Note that all of the above are big swags and I think we've since settled on a usable battery of about 18 kWh and change on the forums here.
A few things to note: The power consumption is highly dependent on vehicle speed: The slower you go the less it uses (my 30 mile round trip commute during the summer on 45 mph speed limit roads typically consumes about 30%-35% of the battery).

Looking at these numbers I think you would be close. At the end of the work day you probably wouldn't be all the way back to 100% and thus would require more than 8 hours at home to charge back up. I think you may end up something like:
Given 24 hours in a day:

• 8 hours charging at work (8.5? take lunch?) leaving you not quite at 100%
  2 hours commuting? (50 miles each way)
  Leaving 14 hours for the charge at home (assuming no errands, running around)

I think the extra 6 hours or so at home would allow you to get back to 100%.
Does your current residence have an electric dryer or stove? If so, is the plug reachable from where the FFE will be parked? If so X2 perhaps you could make do with an extension cord (With a dryer or stove you could make use of the LCS-20.)

 

[blackbeasst]

My default assumptions for that calculator were:

• 230 Wh/mile average consumption
  19.5 kWh battery usable

Given those assumptions it calculated just over 1/2 the battery would be used (56%). The Ford spec'd time of empty to full on 120V is ~20 hours. That would mean 10 hours for 50%.
Note that all of the above are big swags and I think we've since settled on a usable battery of about 18 kWh and change on the forums here.
A few things to note: The power consumption is highly dependent on vehicle speed: The slower you go the less it uses (my 30 mile round trip commute during the summer on 45 mph speed limit roads typically consumes about 30%-35% of the battery).

Looking at these numbers I think you would be close. At the end of the work day you probably wouldn't be all the way back to 100% and thus would require more than 8 hours at home to charge back up. I think you may end up something like:
Given 24 hours in a day:

• 8 hours charging at work (8.5? take lunch?) leaving you not quite at 100%
  2 hours commuting? (50 miles each way)
  Leaving 14 hours for the charge at home (assuming no errands, running around)

I think the extra 6 hours or so at home would allow you to get back to 100%.
Does your current residence have an electric dryer or stove? If so, is the plug reachable from where the FFE will be parked? If so X2 perhaps you could make do with an extension cord (With a dryer or stove you could make use of the LCS-20.)

i would have roughly 12 hours of charging at home. usually home by 5:30ish pm and leave at at 6:45am. i do have access to a dryer plug in my current home. but wouldn't i need a plugin that fits it?

edit: it looks like the lcs-20 you speak of is kind of a mobile plugin? i hate to go that route for a month till we move when i know for sure i can hard wire a 240 at our new place.

 

[jmueller065]

i do have access to a dryer plug in my current home. but wouldn't i need a plugin that fits it?

Well you could go with this guy:
http://www.clippercreek.com/store/product/charging-station-lcs-25p-nema-14-30/

or this guy:
http://www.clippercreek.com/store/product/charging-station-lcs-25p-nema-l6-30-2/

and get an adapter to go to what the dryer plug looks like:
http://evseupgrade.com/?main_page=index&cPath=7&zenid=tu8pca5hn50sqinocrp14hsnv6

Note that the 2nd LCS-25p has an L6-30 plug and there are plenty of adapters at EVSE Upgrade that terminate with an L6-30. As a bonus that LCS-25p is portable and you can use it at the new house too--just have the plug wired in the garage for it.

The LCS-25 won't charge the FFE at its fastest rate, but you'll still get a full charge in about 4 hours (from empty)..enough for you to even get quick charges at home for running errands, etc.

(I keep an LCS-25P in the "trunk" of the car with a campground adapter...just in case:
http://jamiegeek.myevblog.com/2014/06/10/chargers-are-us-or-rather-evses/
)

 

[WattsUp]

The LCS-25 won't charge the FFE at its fastest rate, but you'll still get a full charge in about 4 hours (from empty)

It actually takes about 5 hours.

The FFE needs at least 23.75 kWh to charge from empty. That's about 19 kWh stored in the battery, but the total 23.75 takes into account the typical 80% charging efficiency (and this is the total that the charger must actually supply, and governs how long charging will take).

Providing 23.75 kWh at a charging rate of 4.8 kW (the maximum for the LCS-25) will take about 4 hours and 56 minutes. This duration can be predicated using simple division (which is a decent approximation, even though the actual charging process is not linear):

23750 watt-hours / 4800 watts = 4.94 hours

(I have the LCS-25 and I have charged it from empty several times, and it indeed takes just about 5 hours.)

At the maximum charging for the LCS-20, which is 3600 kW, a full charge for the FFE will take about 7 hours.

I you have a dryer socket rated for at least 30 amps, I would recommend the LCS-25.

 

[blackbeasst]

I've seen some people say that unplugging and plugging from a dryer outlet is not advised. Any truth to that?

And the only downside is that our new place won't be so conducive to plug in to my dryer outlet.

 

[jmueller065]

And the only downside is that our new place won't be so conducive to plug in to my dryer outlet.

But you can have a dryer plug installed in the new garage? Unless you want faster charging than the LCS-25 provides.

it looks like the lcs-20 you speak of is kind of a mobile plugin? i hate to go that route for a month till we move when i know for sure i can hard wire a 240 at our new place.

Both the LCS-20 and LCS-25 are 240 V Level 2 chargers (LCS-20 = 15A, LCS-25 = 20A).

 

[WattsUp]

it looks like the lcs-20 you speak of is kind of a mobile plugin?

Both the LCS-20 and LCS-25 are portable, in terms of their size (about the size of the OEM unit included with the FFE). The normal "pig tail" versions just have unconnected wires (either for hard-wired installation or for adding a plug).

ClipperCreek even sells versions (for example, the LCS-25P) with a plug of your choice already attached, or you can add the plug yourself to the pig tail version (that's what I did). You can also easily buy/make additional adapters.

Check out what I did with my LCS-25.

i hate to go that route for a month till we move when i know for sure i can hard wire a 240 at our new place.

Huh? Why wouldn't you want a portable unit? You can leave it plugged in when you're home, but take it with you when you need to. You get the best of both worlds.

 

[blackbeasst]

it looks like the lcs-20 you speak of is kind of a mobile plugin?

Both the LCS-20 and LCS-25 are portable, in terms of their size (about the size of the OEM unit included with the FFE). The normal "pig tail" versions just have unconnected wires (either for hard-wired installation or for adding a plug).

ClipperCreek even sells versions (for example, the LCS-25P) with a plug of your choice already attached, or you can add the plug yourself to the pig tail version (that's what I did). You can also easily buy/make additional adapters.

Check out what I did with my LCS-25.

i hate to go that route for a month till we move when i know for sure i can hard wire a 240 at our new place.

Huh? Why wouldn't you want a portable unit? You can leave it plugged in when you're home, but take it with you when you need to. You get the best of both worlds.

well that goes back to my question earlier about how i've seen some folks talk about how its not really best practice to constantly unplug/plug these level 2's in so much. that was my only concern!

 

[blackbeasst]

and whats the scoop on this turbocord that i see pop up here and there? gimmic or does it actually work as well as others?

 

[jmueller065]

I haven't heard that you can't plug/unplug level 2's that much. I wonder if they are confusing the fact that you shouldn't unplug the Level 2 from power before unplugging the car from the Level 2. If the car is in the middle of the highest current charge cycle and you yank the power plug from the wall (not the vehicle plug) you'll probably get a nasty spark at the connector as there will be ~20A of 240V current going through there.

You always should unplug at the vehicle (where the EVSE detects you pressing the latch and disengages some relays first) to safely unplug. Once the J1772 cable is unplugged from the car its safe to unplug the EVSE from the wall.

I don't have any experience with the Turbocord and don't really see a need for one: Its basically a low-power EVSE that can be powered from either 120V or 240V (much like the Juicebox). The car already comes with a 120V cord in it so that isn't necessary. Then the decision is: buy just the 240V version of the Turbocord, or some other 240V EVSE (like the Clipper creek's discussed in this thread).

Full disclosure: I don't work for Clippercreek, its just a really nice unit (as is the Juicebox. The Juicebox would work for you as well since you can adjust the current it uses, but I think the LCS-25 is better packaged for your current short-term needs).

 

[blackbeasst]

I haven't heard that you can't plug/unplug level 2's that much. I wonder if they are confusing the fact that you shouldn't unplug the Level 2 from power before unplugging the car from the Level 2. If the car is in the middle of the highest current charge cycle and you yank the power plug from the wall (not the vehicle plug) you'll probably get a nasty spark at the connector as there will be ~20A of 240V current going through there.

You always should unplug at the vehicle (where the EVSE detects you pressing the latch and disengages some relays first) to safely unplug. Once the J1772 cable is unplugged from the car its safe to unplug the EVSE from the wall.

I don't have any experience with the Turbocord and don't really see a need for one: Its basically a low-power EVSE that can be powered from either 120V or 240V (much like the Juicebox). The car already comes with a 120V cord in it so that isn't necessary. Then the decision is: buy just the 240V version of the Turbocord, or some other 240V EVSE (like the Clipper creek's discussed in this thread).

Full disclosure: I don't work for Clippercreek, its just a really nice unit (as is the Juicebox. The Juicebox would work for you as well since you can adjust the current it uses, but I think the LCS-25 is better packaged for your current short-term needs).

well short term for the current house till july 31, but would it still work for our new place once i get a new plug installed or is it better to get a fully hard wired one?

also, i talked to another dealer that originally quoted me $348/month with comparable numbers from athens ford. i then asked for transport to athens as well as coming up with something on buying a level 2 and install. he came back with they would cut me back a $1500 check after the deal is done to cover the level 2 and install...................but...............my payment would go up to $400/month.

im thinkin the athens ford deal is still better with $340 month and then i buy my own level 2 and pay for install.

thoughts?