atikovi
Member
Or are good with Photoshop.
New owner question about displayed range and real world range.
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Except 200 miles indicated on the GOM doesn't necessarily equal 200 miles of range.
When I go places, I try to avoid the hyways. This ussualy means an extra 5-10 minutes and less miles to boot.
Well I live near Charleston SC. 50 miles is no more than 100 foot elevation change in any direction. This was also some sort of anomoly, must have been a strong tail wind or something. I can in many cases get 180-190 watt/hours per mile though. This is mostly going 30 mph and getting all the lights in my favor. Most of the time I get 200-210 watt/hours per mile. There are also rare occasions where I can only get 240 watt/hours and I don't know exactly why. Probably battery heating or cooling going on that I cannot see.
Anti_Climax
Well-known member
Round trip from and back to my house, so the same elevation gained and lost in total. Just good old hypermiling.
calvinhc
Well-known member
Yes it does.
It also helps to understand that it uses your driving history (how you drive and the conditions you were driving in) and that the history is weighted in favour of the most recent use. In other words, your energy consumption during the most recent ten miles of driving count for more than the fifty miles before that, which counts for more than the 200 miles before that.
Anti_Climax
Well-known member
Has that been quantified? I've been considering a long term log of distance and power power use versus the estimate to try and nail down the actual formula. But if someone has already confirmed that, no real need.
What is your goal in trying to reverse engineer the prediction algorithm?
atikovi
Member
Probably to take the Guess out of Guess-Oh-Meter.
Anti_Climax
Well-known member
Pretty much. Prediction algorithm is a pretty lofty term for it. Feels quite a bit like an old windows download dialog.
Haha ... I may indeed have used thise words owing to my having lived and worked thru the DOS to Windows transition!!
One wildcard in knowing your available range is the actual capacity of your battery pack, given whatever time and usage degradation it's suffered.
Ford's estimate of 115 miles seems to assume usage at a rate of ~290 watt hours per mile. But if your battery has lost 15% of capacity, then at 290 wh/mile, you only get 98 miles of range.
Anyway, have fun!!
One wildcard in knowing your available range is the actual capacity of your battery pack, given whatever time and usage degradation it's suffered.
Ford's estimate of 115 miles seems to assume usage at a rate of ~290 watt hours per mile. But if your battery has lost 15% of capacity, then at 290 wh/mile, you only get 98 miles of range.
Anyway, have fun!!
Anti_Climax
Well-known member
It's easy enough to figure your energy capacity using the trip meter, assuming you can't just pull EtE with Forscan. The EPA estimate of 117 miles would be against 29kwh EtE on a new pack, which worked out to ~250Wh/mi.
After my pack swap, I could manage that range on a round trip at ~65mph over most of it, so not really unreasonable.
I have a 2017 with the 33.5kwh battery, EPA rated for 115 mi of range.
What does "EtE" mean (in your post)?
(One source I read stated that the EPA starts with a fully charged battery, let's it sit overnight, then runs its dyno test schedule [either hwy or city] taking the battery to 0% SOC, which nobody wants to do, but applies a "real world" discount of 0.7 to their test figure -- with a 55/45, hwy/city mix-- to arrive at their rating. That implies that the EPA got over 160 miles on their dyno!!)
What does "EtE" mean (in your post)?
(One source I read stated that the EPA starts with a fully charged battery, let's it sit overnight, then runs its dyno test schedule [either hwy or city] taking the battery to 0% SOC, which nobody wants to do, but applies a "real world" discount of 0.7 to their test figure -- with a 55/45, hwy/city mix-- to arrive at their rating. That implies that the EPA got over 160 miles on their dyno!!)
Anti_Climax
Well-known member
EtE is Energy-to-empty. It's the value of actual energy the vehicle can pull from the battery before it's discharged.
They might run to "0%" charge but they are not dealing with the actual cell SoC. When your battery is fully charged, the actual pack is at 95.0% SoC. When it's at zero, the pack SoC is 8-9%. And zero on the dash gauge actually has 1kWh of energy available as an emergency reserve below that - which still doesn't actually take the pack to 0% SoC.
And if mostly 65mph lines up to the EPA rating, I would expect 45/55 with a 30% derate to be in the neighborhood. Power draw from air resistance at speed increases exponentially. https://www.myfocuselectric.com/thr...tative-power-and-energy-values-at-speed.4210/
They might run to "0%" charge but they are not dealing with the actual cell SoC. When your battery is fully charged, the actual pack is at 95.0% SoC. When it's at zero, the pack SoC is 8-9%. And zero on the dash gauge actually has 1kWh of energy available as an emergency reserve below that - which still doesn't actually take the pack to 0% SoC.
And if mostly 65mph lines up to the EPA rating, I would expect 45/55 with a 30% derate to be in the neighborhood. Power draw from air resistance at speed increases exponentially. https://www.myfocuselectric.com/thr...tative-power-and-energy-values-at-speed.4210/