Reported Range after full charge

[jmueller065]

"]Is IDS out on the net somewhere where it can be downloaded?

Not really: IDS is Ford's official dealership diagnostic tools.

 

[triangles]

The Guess-O-Meter is a tad strange at times. This morning it said 98 miles, unexplainable since it usually would read 75 miles at that time.
And, after rolling down a mountain, it can read 138 miles or so. Just crazy.
I'm not sure why the software on board can't just place a reasonable cap, a limit, on the range displayed, like 85 max. Anything higher is just fraud.

Not necessarily. I have managed to get 90 mi. out of a charge. I think others have flirted with or achieved triple digits. But yeah 138mi is just ridiculous.

 

[jmueller065]

But yeah 138mi is just ridiculous.

My coworker took his FFE down the Woodward Dream Cruise one year. After idling down 10 miles or so his GOM showed more than 200 miles.

 

[electrons]

But yeah 138mi is just ridiculous.

My coworker took his FFE down the Woodward Dream Cruise one year. After idling down 10 miles or so his GOM showed more than 200 miles.

One added line of software would cure that: "IF (Calculated_Range > 85) THEN Display 85"
Problem is, someone might actually believe 200, or 98, miles & plan accordingly. We're too smart to be fooled, but some aren't.

 

[hybridbear]

"]I'v been documenting my inbound trip from home to work.

Miles 24.8

Mon 294Wh/mi
Tues 289Wh/mi
Wed 294Wh/mi
Thu 274Wh/mi

That's not very efficient. My Lifetime Wh/mi is 238. I've had my Focus Electric for about 22 months and 20,000 miles. It has been through two winters & almost two summers. I track my Wh/mi monthly and those Wh/mi numbers are crazy high!

Did they go down after the rebalancing? The car does automatically balance the cells after completing a charge, but the dealer can force a more complete process via IDS. I think it can do this balancing on both 120V & 240V. 240V is recommended because battery heating/cooling and other functions really cannot happen with the low power available via 120V.

 

[az erik]

Funny enough i just bought my second 2013 FFE today. It's got battery range oddities as well

My current 2013 FFE 20k (Black in AZ) lifetime is 240kWh a mile avg
My "new" one with 33k on it 412KWh avg lifetime.

I'm not worried as i have a bit of time on the factory warranty but I took it out and ran on the freeway in 106 dgrees with the ac on LO and speed about 70 and there is a few things that effect the range. The AC on LO in a parking lot for about 3 miuntes before we took off caused the trip 2 meter to go well above 1k kWh as it took running about 1.5 miles for it to come below 999. After a few miles I got it down to 600, after a few more down to 345. Interestingly when I keyed off it gave me the actual kWh trip 2 as 425 or the likes.

1 thing about these cars is they use the previous runs as the basis, if I use the budget text it budgets to 45 miles, but the secondary budget meter is at 400kWh and was very easy to obtain about 275-300. I wasn't going light on it and didn't turn the air down to 76 until the last 1/2 mile back.

I'll have the car on Friday at which point I'll try the "lifetime" reset as the Sync reset didn't do anything. Also the second key is missing so my guess is it was never used, this previous owner might well have pushed it pretty hard in LA the whole time. Not to mention the last 2k put on it was after the last carfax report a couple months ago. I don't expect the battery capacity to have decreased but that the car has trained it's self to the previous driver. I'll pin down reseting that with my level 2 at home or pulling the battery. My guess is the last couple months of charge might have been lvl1 and that alone might freak it out more.

First shot will be key reset (if I can pin down how)
2nd lifetime reset
3rd pull battery (12v as this has fixed my other ffe charge now/charge later hang up from time to time)
4th send to the dealer

I'll report back.

 

[WattsUp]

My "new" one with 33k on it 412KWh avg lifetime.

Why don't you just reset it?

 

[CWD]

I've seen a lot of variation in the battery charge level. When I charge at home I usually see between 77 and 88 available miles. As soon as I hit the road I usually see a 5-7 mile drop on the GOM. I plug in at work and after 8 hours the GOM reads 84-96 available miles which also drops the 5-7 miles as soon as I start driving. I drive 23 miles each way. I usually don't use the A/C unless its really hot (like this coming week) and I usually drive like a madman the last few miles home just because I can.

 

[WattsUp]

I've seen a lot of variation in the battery charge level. When I charge at home I usually see between 77 and 88 available miles. As soon as I hit the road I usually see a 5-7 mile drop on the GOM. I plug in at work and after 8 hours the GOM reads 84-96 available miles which also drops the 5-7 miles as soon as I start driving. I drive 23 miles each way. I usually don't use the A/C unless its really hot (like this coming week) and I usually drive like a madman the last few miles home just because I can.

The estimated range (in miles) doesn't represent the "charge level" (in kWh). Simplistically speaking, the car always fully charges to the exactly the same level of stored energy (kWh), but the car may estimate different ranges (miles) for the same amount of energy depending on past driving patterns.

Probably your average Wh/mi is different after the trip from home to work (and vice versa), causing the GOM to give different results after each. This could be caused simply by different driving speeds (traffic always slower on the way to work, for example) or a slight incline on the way home (versus the opposite decline on the way to work). These types of repeating circumstances could easily cause your average Wh/mi for trips home to be consistently higher than for trips to work.

 

[hybridbear]

Probably your average Wh/mi is different after the trip from home to work (and vice versa), causing the GOM to give different results after each. This could be caused simply by different driving speeds (traffic always slower on the way to work, for example) or a slight incline on the way home (versus the opposite decline on the way to work). These types of repeating circumstances could easily cause your average Wh/mi for trips home to be consistently higher than for trips to work.

Or because he said he drives "like a madman" the last few miles of the trip home causing the recent memory to be of non-efficient driving, thus causing a lower predicted range right after that trip.

 

[tburns6]

So I am looking at purchasing a used 2013 and if anyone has a Wh/m figure for driving with the heater on it would very helpful. I am in SE Mi and have about a 40mi commute. My employer is nice enough to have installed charging stations so I can charge have a full charge before heading home. I am just a bit worried about the range in the winter with the heater in use if it get really cold......

 

[Pearl]

It would be neat if there was a range calculator for the FFE like there is for the Tesla Model S.

https://www.tesla.com/models

Scroll down to "Range Per Charge"

 

[Lithium]

So I am looking at purchasing a used 2013 and if anyone has a Wh/m figure for driving with the heater on it would very helpful. I am in SE Mi and have about a 40mi commute. My employer is nice enough to have installed charging stations so I can charge have a full charge before heading home. I am just a bit worried about the range in the winter with the heater in use if it get really cold......

I'm 30,000 miles into my 3 yr lease. In the pit of winter, 4f, parked outside, I get 47 miles, maybe 50 on GOM, with heat on, and a preheat while plugged in. Is you 40 mile commute one way to work or 20/20?
I had 20 there, 20 back, car worked flawlessly.
With a Charging station at work, you're golden.

 

[Snowman]

So I am looking at purchasing a used 2013 and if anyone has a Wh/m figure for driving with the heater on it would very helpful. I am in SE Mi and have about a 40mi commute. My employer is nice enough to have installed charging stations so I can charge have a full charge before heading home. I am just a bit worried about the range in the winter with the heater in use if it get really cold......

It will all depend on the type of driving. I live outside of Boston so similar cold weather, and my commute is mostly highway at 70 MPH.

In the winter my Wh/m will range from 350-400 if the heat is on full time. Without any heat or AC my Wh/m is between 220 and 250.

I've had the car for almost 2 years and my lifetime average is 260, almost all highway (90%).

 

[Pearl]

Learn to drive without using much of the climate control.

 

[jmueller065]

Really? A used 2013 in Southeastern Michigan? Is it blue? It could be mine! LOL How many miles on it?? (or it could be my co-workers--if it is run away as fast as you can! LOL)

Is your 40 mile commute one-way or round-trip? It really doesn't matter since you can charge at work. You'll probably have not many issues with a 40 mile commute especially if you pre-condition the car both ways (that will get everything, including the cabin, up to temp before leaving allowing you not to waste any electrons from the battery doing that).

 

[triangles]

I'm in NW Ohio and I think the worst I've gotten was mid 40's about 1/2 Freeway 1/2 city. That day started out in single digits and the high was 13F. I only used the heat to keep the windows just clear enough to drive. I'm sure if you drove 80+ with the heat blasting when it's 10F out you could probably get the range down to mid 30's. If your commute is 40mi one way with a charger at work you will be fine. When it gets very cold out you may have to moderate your heat usage to ensure you have enough range. Keep in mind the faster you drive the shorter your range. Use the "GO times" to preheat your car using grid power before leaving home and work, that will significantly help reduce your heat usage.

 

[dmen]

"The faster you drive the shorter your range" doesn't hold when it's really cold (and you're using the cabin heater). Assuming it's cold enough that your heater is pretty much always on, you now have a significant constant draw of something like 6 kW which translates to 100 Wh used by the heater per minute, regardless of your speed. Yes, the slower you go the less you eat per mile in propulsion energy but the more you eat per mile in heating energy. At 30mph I use about 200 Wh to move the car 1 mile and 200 Wh to heat the cabin for the 2 minutes it takes to drive that mile. At 60 mph, I have 250 Wh to drive a mile and 100 Wh to heat for 1 minute; at 75 mph I have 300 and 80. So my most efficient February driving is on the weekend when I can drive around 50-60 mph and get ranges in the low 50s, vs driving 10mph on my morning commute when I see under 40 mile ranges. Compare to summer when my morning commute gives me ranges over 100 while weekends see 80s.